It’s another world, this glamorous, view-­blessed eyrie 55 floors above Melbourne, where the surprises come thick and fast. They begin with a kangaroo leather table covered in smooth rocks doubling as salt and pepper cellars and butter holders and gnarled vines on which rest Christofle silver. Then there’s the crackling, candy­-coated smoked eel with white chocolate and caviar, a deconstructed ‘late’ breakfast of slow­cooked duck egg yolk, pork and green beans, and ‘prawn crackers’ of crunchy prawn shells. One of the nicest surprises is the clever use of native ingredients, including emu jerky served in smoking gum leaves; tender, salt­cured wallaby; slow­cooked wagyu beef cheek topped with saltbush; and a rather wondrous sweet, roasted marron with tarragon emulsion. Ask the phalanx of staff to slow down if you feel rushed – the better to enjoy whimsical finishing touches such as edible two-­up coins and delicate ‘lamingtons’.

Drinks A walk­through wine cellar and vast dream­team list backed by real knowledge on the floor

And … If your allocated time comes to a close, ask for a table in the beguiling bar.