Lively and boisterous, family-run Thuan An is full most nights, packed with diners in big cushy booths poring over the vast menu of Chinese-influenced, southern Vietnamese cuisine, currently at around 270 items. There's the chef's special quail- crisp, fried and finger-lickin' good; given the salt-and-pepper treatment; buttered; or served with salted eggs. Pho is a symphony of MSG-free, fragrant beef broth and slippery rice noodles; pile on mint, beanshoots and chilli and slurp away. Fish fillets come stir-fried with ginger and onion, and are a fitting match for fluffy white rice and purifying green tea. And, there are jackfruit smoothies for dessert. Service is brisk and efficient.