Hotel Esplanade’s Espy Kitchen, a bayside destination for quality pub fare, has been turned into an Italo-American restaurant called Louey’s, the first major change by new owner Australian Venue Co, which bought the Melbourne institution last August.

With red leather booths, DJs playing Thursday to Saturday in a booth shaped like a disco ball, and a real disco ball that descends from the ceiling, the dial is firmly set to good times in the pub’s rear dining room.

The menu, from executive chef Tony Moss (ex-O’Connell’s Hotel), covers all bases and makes the most of the large kitchens previous owners Sand Hill Road Group installed during an 18-month renovation completed in 2018.

Wood-fired pizzas are there, plus three different riffs on schnitzels (or should that be cotoletta?), and a raft of American side dishes, such as wedge salad.

A round of snacks with “two-sip” dirty vodka martinis might include mini lasagne, crab toast, or a slipper lobster pizza to share.

Bistecca fiorentina and coal-grilled barramundi with capers are among the larger plates, while comfort cooking includes ricotta-stuffed eggplant parmigiana and four pasta dishes, such as linguine with clams.

Cocktails are fun, fruity and Instagrammable ‒ a negroni sbagliato incorporates lemon sorbet for a grown-up riff on a spider.

Louey’s follows in the footsteps of other Italo-American Melbourne diners, such as 1800 Lasagne, Slim’s and the now-closed Connie’s.

The Espy’s front bar remains the spot for pub meals, and Mya Tiger, the Cantonese-leaning restaurant upstairs, is also untouched.

“We can see from the popularity of Mya Tiger that our customers are interested in unique dining, drinking and entertainment experiences, and Louey’s will deliver all of this and more,” says Hotel Esplanade venue manager Chad Kaya.

A spokesperson says there are no plans for further changes to the St Kilda landmark.

Open Wed-Sun noon-late from June 28.

11 The Esplanade, St Kilda, 03 9534 0211, loueys.com.au