In case you need reminding about its seaside location, a fishtank installed in the Boathouse's dining room serves as a visual clue. But there's more evidence on the menu, divided into 'the sea' and 'the land'. Chef Erik Monteith is a stickler for produce, preferring Canadian scallops over local ones, and sourcing tuna from Port Lincoln. Unexpected flourishes of molecular gastronomy emerge from the kitchen. beef tartare comes with a grape-sized pod of bearnaise, a crumbed ball containing the buttery emulsion; scallops come with a foam reduction of shellfish, dill and wine, with soy lecithin added so the foam can hold its seaside bubbles. To end, an apple semifreddo, in which the fruit has been transformed into caviar-like beads, bursts with sweetness and is served with granny smith sorbet and an apple crumble. Through passionate experimentation, this resort restaurant delivers refined modern food with an element of surprise, complemented by capable service.