Rewind to a more elegant time as affable waiters in red waistcoats provide sparkling service that's never stuffy. Many dishes are constructed tableside with an understated sense of ceremony. Sang choy bao is assembled while you watch, chicken mince and fried vermicelli generously piled into dainty lettuce cups. Go for a Peking duck extravaganza (the garnet-red bird carved at your elbow) or one of 'Mum's favourites'. No matter where you're from, a gentle braise of slippery eggplant and tender chicken is comforting. All available at lunchtimes too, along with yum cha.