Whether you want Russian sausage, rotisserie chicken, ramen or pickled pepper bullfrog, you can get it on Koornang Road. The street is arguably the south-east’s most diverse, layered with waves of immigration, and servicing students and families with affordable eats from early morning to late at night.

It was a different story in 1983 when strip stayer Lizzy’s Chocolates first opened. “It was a daytime shopping place,” says Ingrid Nichols, who runs the family store. “These days, it’s thriving in the evenings too.”

Carnegie is 12km south-east of the city, with its main strip running south from Dandenong Road for about 700 metres. The first inhabitants of the area were the Bunurong people of the Kulin Nation.

In the 1850s, settler William Murray Ross built a sugar beet processing factory here (never used) and a private railway from Elsternwick (used once). With remarkable hubris, Ross sold “Rosstown” land parcels for market-gardens while descending into debt and disgrace.

The Rosstown name persists in the landmark corner pub but the area was renamed Carnegie in 1908, possibly as an attempt to elicit a donation from American industrialist Andrew Carnegie. The appeal to ego had worked in Carnegie, Pennsylvania but no such philanthropy ensued here.

Key moments for the suburb include the arrival of post-World War II Jewish immigrants, including my father’s family, who came from Czechoslovakia and opened a clothing store.

In 1990, the merging of the local tech institute with Monash University to form its thriving Caulfield campus was a shift that continues to bring students to the neighbourhood.

In the early 2000s, Koornang Road was the first place Melbourne came to eat Korean food: I remember learning how to say bibimbap at pioneering Kimchi Grandma, and the first Gami Korean fried chicken store opened here in 2006, a passion project by friends who met at Monash Uni (there are now 38 stores around the country).

The biggest recent event was the 2018 level crossing removal, which freed up traffic flow and created public space. “Ten years ago, you could roll a bowling ball down the street and not hit anything,” says Pete Kohn from the local traders’ association. “Now, every night of the week, there are good crowds. Young families go down for an early meal, then older people come out for dinner and younger adults head later to the bars.”

City of Glen Eira Mayor Anne-Marie Cade lives, shops and eats here and is pleased her favourite strip lures people from across Melbourne.

Yiannis Kasidokostas owns S.owl fine dining restaurant and Little Athens souvlaki joint. “Koornang Road is the centre of the south-east, the busiest and best,” he says.

Chilli Queen of Hunan

For chilli fiends, this is one of the most exciting finds on the strip. It’s a quirky place with a counter at the front and seating concealed via a hallway, but the staff are friendly and the menu is a mega survey of the punchy food of the southern Chinese province of Hunan. Start gently with fried tofu and duck simmered in beer before branching out with dishes like pickled pepper bullfrog and pork kidney with pickled chilli.

45 Koornang Road, Carnegie, chilliqueenofhunan.com.au

Egg King Taiwan

In the corner of Yuanfang Asian Supermarket, there’s a food stand selling juices and freshly made Taiwanese snacks. Bubble waffles are a simple place to start your adventure but if you’re after a deeply savoury flavour party, try the pressed sandwich with preserved duck egg and meat floss. Dishes can take a while because everything is made to order, but the attached Asian grocery is good for a browse and a buy.

53-55 Koornang Road, Carnegie

The Carnegie Commons

Perfectly located for after-work snacks right below the station, the Commons is the kind of neighbourhood wine bar that will have you scouting local real estate. Slide in for a tapas taster platter with paella pancake and fried chicken slider, paired perhaps with a fancy Red Lips cocktail or glass of wine.

1b Morton Avenue, Carnegie, thecarnegiecommons.com.au

Paradai 2 Thai

Want to engage a Carnegie local in earnest debate? Ask them which Paradai Thai is their favourite: they’re facing off right next door to each other. One is large and modern and has a specialty coffee window called Sibling Spice. Two is less slick but the flavours are more powerful and uncompromising. Try the classic pad grapao stir-fry with chilli, beans and basil.

62 Koornang Road, Carnegie, paradai2thairestaurant.com.au

BKK Laboratory

Not only does this bright, cheery cafe serve one of the strip’s best coffees, it also does great Thai-fusion brunches. The congee is comforting, the souffle pancakes are fluffy and light (try the pandan or durian versions), and the rendang meatball sub is excitingly tasty. There are some showstopping drinks too: make mine a matcha tiramisu latte.

63 Koornang Road, Carnegie, instagram.com/bkk_lab

Shyun Ramen Bar

Before Melbourne knew how to argue about different styles of ramen, Shyun already had its broth going. They know a thing or two about collagen-rich pork and chicken soups at this bustling bar, and the open kitchen is visible between drifts of steam emanating from bubbling cauldrons. Don’t fret if the restaurant looks full − there is a large dining area at the rear too. Also consider Shyun down the road at #126, which has a broader Japanese menu, including sushi and generous, colourful chirashi bowls.

73 Koornang Road, Carnegie, shyunramenbar.com.au

The Bank Carnegie

The 1939 building is one of the street’s most impressive but it’s actually the pet-friendly outdoor spaces where much of the fun happens, especially as the weather warms up. There are cool indoor spaces too, including the old bank vault and boardroom, both of which can be reserved for functions. The pubby menu and range of drinks are easy-please and nicely done.

75a Koornang Road, Carnegie, thebankcarnegie.com.au

Nuvoletta Gelateria

“Gelato is necessary” is the motto at this store run by Italian gelato and pastry experts Vera Teodori and Alex Toretto, who met at a gelato shop in Rome. Flavours are made daily and churned on site. The classics are impeccable but it’s worth branching out to special creations, maybe the miso vanilla with kumquat marmalade or fior di latte with Earl Grey tea.

82 Koornang Road, Carnegie, nuvolettagelateria.com.au

T6 Patisserie

A new player that shows how diverse and dynamic the street is, T6 draws together Malaysian flavours and French patisserie to create exciting fusion cakes. Go home with whole cakes for celebrations or sit down with a coffee and baked treat such as the pandan-coconut croissant.

88 Koornang Road, Carnegie, t6patisserie.com

The Hot Bird

Locally owned and employing plenty of Carnegie teens, this modern roast chicken shop does the job well. Swing by for juicy rotisserie birds and a range of good salads. It’s in a laneway between the strip and the car park, and there’s seating if the wind isn’t howling. Need a sweet finish? Lukumades Greek doughnuts is right next door.

4/89 Koornang Road, Carnegie, thehotbird.com.au

S.owl

When you want Carnegie fine dining, you come to S.owl. The name is pronounced “soul” but it also suggests the wisdom of an owl: this is smart cuisine and a very accomplished restaurant. The food and mood is infused with the emotion and passion of owner-chef Yiannis Kasidokostas, who channels dishes from his Greek heritage into bountiful Mediterranean menus that are best shared. The hilopites (pasta) with lobster and pull-apart “lamb of the gods” are must-not-miss dishes.

92 Koornang Road, Carnegie, sowl-restaurant.com.au

SSAM Korean BBQ

Koornang Road was Melbourne’s first Korean hub and restaurants like Kimchi Grandma (#125) are where many locals ate their first bibimbap and potato noodles. Grandma is still good but SSAM has more hype these days, with people queuing for all-you-can-eat buffets. The restaurant sources meat directly, meaning quality is high while prices are low (about $50 for a 90-minute feast).

96 Koornang Road, Carnegie, ssamkoreanbbq.com.au

Europa

Serving bagels, hearty borscht and Polish baked cheesecake since 2012, Europa is a popular coffee and lunch stop and does a steady takeaway trade for plum-jam doughnuts and celebration cakes. Check the specials board for signatures such as the Polish sour rye soup with smoked sausage.

99a Koornang Road, Carnegie, europacafecakes.com.au

Roule Galette

From the age of 10, Michel Dubois cooked crepes for his parents and six siblings. He and his team are now preparing traditional French buckwheat galettes (they’re gluten-free) and sweet crepes for Melbourne. There’s an original city store but this eight-year-old outpost is just as atmospheric, with French newspapers glued to the walls and earthenware cups for cider, the traditional galette accompaniment. Try the camembert galette and the flambeed Normandy crepe.

104 Koornang Road, Carnegie, roulegalette.com.au

Russian Tidbits

Come for the gypsy sausage, stay for the swirl of Russian conversation. As well as an incredible range of hams and sausages, many prepared on-site, there are Eastern European groceries and confectionery. This is a cultural experience as much as a delicatessen − don’t expect quick, crisp service; do expect fantastic smallgoods.

113 Koornang Road, Carnegie

Little Athens

The casual offshoot of S.owl has some of the best souvlaki in town, with all meat minced in-house. The spicy lamb kofta is probably the pick: if you’re eating in, get a platter with roasted green chilli, tzatziki and house-made tomato sauce. If you’re on the go, have the same ingredients wrapped in a pita. The sides and mezze are exceptional: it’s easy to build a meal with roasted vegetables, cheese pastries and a dip or two. House-made syrup-soaked desserts are worth saving a corner for.

120 Koornang Road, Carnegie, littleathens.com.au

Ramen and Dumpling House

Dumplings are made to order in this low-key well-worn restaurant. I’m a fan of the pan-fried pork dumplings with a crispy golden fringe. There’s plenty of local love for this place: I arrived towards the end of a Thursday lunchtime and chatty tables were settled in with BYO wine and an old-friend feeling as sizzling satay beef was paraded through the room.

134 Koornang Road, Carnegie

Gabriella Pizza

If you appreciate old-school piled-high pizza then this divey classic will appeal. I love it, especially the 1966 menu taped in the window, when spaghetti bolognese was 85 cents and schnitzel was $1.60. Sit in for a capricciosa and a quaffable house red.

146 Koornang Road, Carnegie, gabriellapizza.com.au

Bromley’s Bread

Good local wheat and a rigorous approach to sourdough ensure this family-run bakery always has bare shelves by the end of the day. The sausage roll hits all the right meaty-fatty notes and the almond croissant − always a good test of viennoiserie − is excellent, though it may be outshone by the flaky chocolate hazelnut croissant.

160 Koornang Road, Carnegie, bromleysbread.com.au

Lizzy’s Chocolate Creations

Nostalgic and cosy, this chocolate shop has been here since 1983, and is now run by the founders’ daughter Ingrid Nichols. The truffles are dainty with flavours that extend from blood orange to Irish cream. Select some to eat here, alongside a brilliant hot chocolate, of course, as well as buying gift and treat drawer supplies.

172 Koornang Road, Carnegie, lizzyschocolates.com.au

Kenneth’Z Wagyu

This amazing store is tucked away at the quiet end of the strip. Kenneth Zhu is a butcher and chef who has followed his passion for wagyu and opened a gleaming emporium devoted to marbled meat. Come for sukiyaki and Korean barbecue cuts, impressive steaks and melt-in-the-mouth burger patties and skewers.

178 Koornang Road, Carnegie, instagram.com/kennethzwagyu