For those unfamiliar with Irish-Chinese food, a seeming oxymoron, the term spice bag might be met with furrowed brows and blank stares. Is it a type of tea? A literal bag filled with spices?

To the contrary, the popular late-night dish was born out of Chinese takeaway shops in Ireland, trickling down to England and now, Australia, where whispers of spice bags have grown louder and louder in Melbourne – particularly in areas populated by Irish backpackers such as the inner-city beachside suburb of St Kilda.

So what actually is a spice bag? While its composition may vary between venues, the (mostly) deep-fried, beige-coloured dish typically involves hot chips seasoned with spices including chilli, paprika, onion and garlic powders. These are tossed with fried chicken bits, and served with curry sauce for dipping purposes. Most spice bags include capsicum and onion, too, and certain variations come with rice.

The Irish invention may not have taken off to the same degree Down Under yet, but the humble spice bag is commonplace in British and Irish culture, often purchased on a drunken stumble home from the pub or while nursing a hangover the following morning. Think of it as an Irish-Chinese halal snack pack (HSP), if you will.

In the spice bag heartland of St Kilda, Northern Soul – a colourful fish ‘n’ chipper that celebrates British and Irish takeaway culture – buys 850 kilograms of potatoes a week to cater to demand from local Irish residents and Brits. The spuds come from a Gippsland farmer and are then hand-cut, double-fried and laden with salt and a secret house seasoning that’s heavy on five-spice.

On St Kilda’s Acland Street, Irish pub Jimmy O’Neills began serving spice bags during lockdown in 2020 when food was only available to take away. It claims to be the first Irish pub in Melbourne to serve the item, which attracted plenty of hungry (and, in some cases, homesick) Irish, British and Aussie punters.

On the weekend before St Patrick’s Day (March 17), Jimmy O’Neills is running a two-day festival in O’Donnell Gardens beside Luna Park. It includes Irish language lessons, roving entertainers and a parade down Acland Street on the Saturday, and live music by international Irish acts and food stalls on the Sunday. Naturally, Guinness and spice bags will be available on both days of the festival.

But spice bags aren’t confined to Melbourne’s south-east. At Dusty’s cafe in Fitzroy, co-owner and head chef Nathan Kinder has plenty of family over in Ireland and travels there regularly. His connection to the country inspired him to add spice bags to Dusty’s menu as an “easy way to get the Irish diaspora through the doors”.

There’s a smattering of other venues across the city where you’re able to find various iterations of this golden, spicy snack. Tip: it goes well with Guinness.