The first thing you notice about Eighty One is its magnificent vaulted wooden ceiling, enough to make interior designers buckle and swoon. This deceptively casual bar/restaurant pairs rustic with savvy in decor and food. The space is deftly segmented for cosy booth-like or fireside dining while still keeping a sense of air and expanse. The menu from chef Matt Major (ex-Donovan's and Hotel Lincoln) is bright and lively, with a handful of imaginative, wine-friendly snacks such as Middle Eastern prawn toast encrusted with zaatar, or smaller share-plates like squid stuffed with saffron quinoa. Mains are lusty and sumptuous: chestnut gnocchi comes with whole roasted mushrooms, broad beans and shards of parmesan wafer; the Otway pork belly accompanied by a whole baked apple. Desserts are desirable - a satin-smooth orange blossom bavarois gets a cheeky kick from a sprinkling of rose petals and pistachio candy. Servings are more than generous, as are the knowledgeable, conversational staff.