Baby is an undeniably sexy beast, from the lip-smacking art to the suggestive neon logo. It's slightly easier to score a table here than at this rowdy youngster's sibling, zeitgeist-defining Thai diner Chin Chin but not much. The sleek space has warm wood and canvas walls. The spunky floor staff are engaging but never intrusive, leading the way through a double-sided paper menu. Covering all bases, it's split into categories, including small plates such as vitello tonnato - shaved veal with intense tuna mayonnaise humming with tarragon and capers. Hand-made pastas, such as guitar-string pasta with crumbling Italian sausage, are made for sharing, as are thin-based pizza, sparsely topped with things like bresaola and gorgonzola, or San Marzano tomatoes and anchovies. To finish, creme caramello with salted caramel sauce over a light panna cotta is a must order. Baby, you're here to stay.