If the name means 'secret shop', no-one's told the hordes who pile into tiny Ajitoya daily for home-style yet modern Japanese fare. Thankfully the cool terrazzo floor and quirky flower arrangements bring a sense of serenity. Kick off with karaage, wickedly good fried chicken in a barely-there potato starch coating. Takoyaki are also top-notch, crisp balls spiked with diced octopus, festive under a snowdrift of red ginger, green nori and feathery bonito flakes. Dig in to shogayaki don, slender ribbons of pork reclining on rice, kissed with mayo and Japanese seven-spice. Augment the experience with Japanese craft beers, from espresso stout to red miso lager.