‘I love salt and vinegar chips’: Michelin-starred chef Clare Smyth shares her food, drink and restaurant favourites
The famous British chef on why she thinks Sydney is one of the world’s great food cities, and her favourite places to eat in Australia (and the world).
Clare Smyth might be the first and only British female chef to hold three Michelin stars in the UK, but she’s also got her eye on Melbourne as a potential next restaurant destination. “Never say never, watch this space,” she says.
For now, Smyth travels to Australia three times a year – catching up with the team behind her chic Sydney restaurant, Oncore by Clare Smyth at Crown Sydney, and more recently, being a guest judge on MasterChef Australia.
Being on set with the contestants was an eye-opening experience for the trained chef, who says the pressure to be the best never actually shifts from the working mindset.
“I learn a lot from watching them cook,” says Smyth.
“They aren’t professional and think outside of the box when they cook. They piece dishes together with different thought processes and are free of any training. I’ve seen some naturally good cooks in the mix and I think to myself, I hope no one spoils that for them in their career.”
Eating in
Your go-to dish at home?
It’s simple food when I am home cooking. I love a barbecue chicken with lots of grilled vegetables and salad and a romesco sauce I can whip up in a minute.
What is your guilty pleasure?
I am really naughty when it comes to a guilty pleasure because I love salt and vinegar chips and now, I have discovered the Ibérico ham flavoured ones too.
Best kitchen wisdom you cling to?
It’s about buying the best quality produce you can afford. That rule never gets old. Buy what’s in season and keep it simple when you cook. Eat more vegetables is another one – it’s better for us and better for the planet.
Eating out
Your favourite hometown restaurant (and go-to dish)?
My favourite London restaurant I go to most frequently is Scott’s Mayfair Seafood and Fish Restaurant. It’s a brasserie with a seafood grill. I always order a sole meunière with potatoes and a rocket salad. I am also a big fan of our native oysters, and during the oyster season I go to Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill on Swallow Street, just off Piccadilly. It’s an institution.
Your favourite hometown cafe and/or bar?
I always visit a cafe near my house called The Toast Rack Bake House. They make their own bread and sourdough pizzas and it’s just a very simple cafe, but the focus is on good produce and they make a good coffee. I drink a flat white daily. When it comes to cocktails, I am a big fan of the martini. The Connaught Bar in London, which is famous for its cocktails, is where I like to go for a martini. They make the best martinis and there’s a great cocktail trolley too.
What is your favourite place to eat in Australia, and are there any special food memories here you have?
Around 20 years ago when I first visited Australia, I ate at Rockpool Bar & Grill with Neil Perry. It was my first magical experience dining out in Sydney experience. I also love to dine at Firedoor Restaurant in Surry Hills; I’m a big fan of this place.
Aria Restaurant Sydney is a class act – it is consistent throughout and does everything so well, from the great food, service and location. I love Margaret for its wine list and pairings. I recently ate a stunning grilled whiting made with Perry’s own olive oil. It’s all those years of knowledge that comes out on the plate. You can’t learn what he does in five minutes. Perry knows the producers and fishermen and knows what he’s getting. It is something I admire. I love his lifetime of knowledge and I always eat there when I am back in Sydney. I also like to drop into Icebergs Dining Room and Bar – a perfect Sunday spot. I’ll eat oysters, seafood and sit outside with a crudo and a bottle of wine.
In Melbourne, I recently ate at Aru. A lovely city restaurant, and I remember the amazing bread – charred with molasses. I also dined at Flower Drum. It was my first time there – an old classic for Melbourne. Vue de Monde is another regular stop for me.
On the road
What’s your favourite food city and why?
One of my favourite food cities is Sydney, but I also love San Francisco. They have phenomenal produce and a lot of the restaurants are connected to farms or have their own growers. The French Laundry is my favourite restaurant of all time. Their classic oysters and pearls dish is a super elegant one. Single Thread Farms is another incredible restaurant that is a farm and a vineyard in Healdsburg, California. They are hyper-seasonal. The first thing I ate there were peaches and plums they had grown. They were perfect in ripeness and flavour. I also ate a grilled fish dish which came with summer squash – very light and delicious. The restaurant is very produce-led and all about beautiful simple cooking. A lot of Japanese influence is also evident here. Foodies also have to visit these San Francisco favourites of mine – Atelier Crenn, a high-end restaurant, and Quince for contemporary seasonal Californian cuisine. Also go visit Bistro Bouchon in the Napa.
Where do you stay when you’re there and why?
You can’t go wrong staying at the Four Seasons in San Francisco. It’s right in the centre of the city. I also like staying in guest houses in Healdsburg – a really picturesque town that shifts the big hotel mindset. You can find some lovely accommodation with lots of character here. Single Thread Farms also have accommodation on site.
Clare Smyth appears on MasterChef Australia on Ten at 7.30pm on Monday June 27 and 10Play anytime.