A Scottish chef with a French fine-dining background may seem an unlikely champion for the cause of Australia's indigenous ingredients, but Jock Zonfrillo is relentless in his belief in an authentic Australian cuisine. Dining at Orana is unlike dining anywhere else, not least because the graceful, harmonious dishes speak of a true sense of place - from buffalo curd with fermented bunya nut and beetroot, to emu with mulberry and mountain pepper.