The experienced team behind Hampton Wine Co – Jarrod Amos, Pierre Geoffroy and Glenn Mill, all ex-Jacques Reymond – have Abbiocco, a convivial Italian restaurant in a new building wedged between the railway line and Highett Road.

At the front, a small wine bar looks into the kitchen but coronavirus restrictions mean it's more of a "welcome, here's the sanitiser, can we have your details?" zone.

Up a ramp, the stylish dining room is all terrazzo, timber and olive-green banquettes, and seats a socially distanced 20. A rear deck promises sunshine spritzes when spring comes.

Abbiocco translates more or less as "food coma" and the menu will happily steer you in that direction.

Shareable snacks include white anchovies drowned in vibrant gremolata, melting beef carpaccio with anchovies and rocket, and an impressive oozy burrata over eggplant caponata.

Handmade pasta is the real deal – the tortelli stuffed with gorgonzola and tumbled with burnt butter and sage is something of a signature after just two weeks trading.

Don't let abbiocco sneak up on you until after dessert, more specifically the tiramisu, a creamy, cloud-like wodge that is floaty enough to soothe pangs for European getaways.

Open Wed-Fri 4pm-11pm; Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-10pm.

501 Highett Road, Highett, 03 9191 4566, abbioccohighett.com