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Besha Rodell

Chief restaurant critic

Besha Rodell is the anonymous chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.

December will mark the ten-year anniversary of Embla.
Good Food hat15.5/20

This dark, moody wine bar is our critic’s go-to because it’s exactly what Melbourne does best

This decade-old CBD favourite is still as dynamic as the day it opened.

  • Besha Rodell
Venison tartlet.
Good Food hat15/20

This freshly hatted restaurant is exciting and delicious, but there’s one missing ingredient

This opening from last spring is flying way under the radar. And we’re the ones losing out.

  • Besha Rodell
Juni opened on Exhibition Street in late November.
13/20

Fun drinks, disappointing duck: Critic sees red at new modern Asian hot spot

The mood-lit restaurant plays it safe with a selection of greatest hits from Michael Lambie’s pan-Asian playbook.

  • Besha Rodell
Jamsheed’s converted industrial dining room.
14/20

The mash-up of cuisines at this suburban winery makes our critic ‘giddy’ (in a good way)

Clara Luna serves bar food, but it’s also soul food; Middle Eastern and South American, but also Australian.

  • Besha Rodell
Arnold’s wine bar in Kensington, complete with disco ball.
13.5/20

This local wine bar stands out from the crowd with its blue drink and Mexican-ish food

Melbourne has plenty of neighbourhood wine bars, but not many have Arnold’s creativity and heart.

  • Besha Rodell
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Marmelo at Melbourne Place.
Good Food hat15/20

Avoiding what’s obvious and popular, this hotel restaurant feels properly new

Focused on the food of Portugal, Marmelo is one of the more exciting restaurants to open in recent memory.

  • Besha Rodell
The “torotaku” hand roll.
14/20

This ‘fantastically affordable’ new sushi counter is the answer to our critic’s prayers

Why can you only get very cheap or very expensive sushi asks Besha Rodell. Nori Maki delivers high-quality sushi in a setting that feels special.

  • Besha Rodell
Big, and brash, and fun: The ground floor of Maison Batard.
14.5/20

‘Eye-wateringly expensive’: Does Maison Batard stand up to its prices and hype?

Chris Lucas’ ambitious four-level venue is Melbourne’s “opening of the season”. Here’s our critic’s verdict.

  • Besha Rodell
One of the pastel-heavy murals at Marmont.
14/20

Plumped up desserts and corporate vibes: Our critic’s verdict on Crown’s glitzy new restaurant

It might have little to do with its namesake Hollywood hotel Chateau Marmont, but it’s serving sexed up and lascivious cornbread.

  • Besha Rodell
Pappardelle ripiene (pasta filled with Jerusalem artichoke) at Bar Olo.

‘Holy hell, this is good’: The seven best dishes our chief critic ate in 2024

After visiting hundreds of restaurants and sampling countless dishes, Besha Rodell looks back in hunger at the seven that rose above the pack.

  • Besha Rodell

Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/by/besha-rodell-h29n0x