There's an argument that the best time to slide into place at Tank's lovely hardwood tables is for the lunchtime show as the city's legal community pours out of court to gather for their meat and drink and Machiavellian pleasures. And there is much pleasure to be had. An entree of Moreton Bay bug, delicately wrapped in a crispy golden sheath of tempura, arrives in a kaleidoscopic swirl of enoki, micro herbs and a wobbling oyster custard. In a generous steaming bowl of broth, a hearty slab of free-range Kingaroy pork rests on a bed of ramen, seaweed and a slow-cooked egg, a seemingly simple dish until the first sip alerts to the deep complexity of flavours. For more harried diners, a bar menu can be enjoyed outside, where you're in the thick of all the best intrigues and adventures. But for a treat such as perfectly cooked salmon with super fresh crabmeat and macadamia milk, find the time to wander inside.