Spice is right at Mother Mexico

One of In the Hanging Garden’s latest eateries delivers punchy flavours designed to go well with a drink and a catch up with friends, writes TasWeekend food writer Alix Davis

In the Hanging Garden

In the Hanging Garden

112 Murray St, Hobart

Opening hours: Wednesday-Sunday 11am-late (check the website).

On the menu

El vegano taco, $7; al pastor taco, $7; pollo taco $7; barbacoa taco, $8.50; baja taco; $8.50; nachos de Jardin Colgante, $24 (with al pastor pork, $27.50), elotes, $6.

Mother Mexico’s Street Tacos, including, top left, Baja (tempura fish) and, front, Polo (chipotle shredded chicken). Picture: DarkLab media.

Some like it hot. My husband is not one of those people, however, I will gladly add a little chilli to anything that stands still for long enough. Happily, the spice was right for both of us on a recent visit to Mother Mexico at In the Hanging Garden.

Located on the upper level of the Garden, Mother Mexico is a sister act to St J’s, the jaffle wranglers on the lower level who also front Liverpool St. The vibe is mellow, especially on a perfect summer evening of clear skies and positively balmy weather. Shorts and summer dresses are on full display, but my husband is taking no chances and has brought his Tasmanian tuxedo to this covered outdoor venue hidden within a city block.

Mother Mexico chef Ben Korkmaz with some of the delicious meals on his tasty, summery menu. Picture: Eddie Safarik

The menu is concise, with dishes designed for snacking while enjoying a drink and some music, rather than a full meal. We start with the tacos and order one of each variety – vegan, with slow-roasted pulled jackfruit ($7), a porky al pastor ($7), chipotle-spiked chicken ($7), lamb barbacoa, ($8.50) and the Baja tempura fish ($8.50).

Each is beautifully presented on a small soft corn tortilla and decked with fresh toppings such as beetroot tequila salsa, pineapple and fennel salsa or pico de gallo. Full of flavour and easy to eat, these are demolished, with relish, in two mouthfuls.

The delicious flavours of Mother Mexico. Picture: DarkLab media

Be warned – the drip factor is high and wearing white jeans wasn’t the smartest choice.

There’s a hint of spice in each taco, but it’s not overpowering and if you want to kick it up a notch, there’s a selection of hot sauces on offer at the collection point.

Drinks are also from south of the border with easy-drinking frozen margaritas ($17) in a variety of flavours along with other cocktails, Mexican beers ($9-$11) and local wines. I opt for a pineapple-flavoured Jarritos Mexican soda – it’s like drinking Aeroplane Jelly, but I’m here for it.

Mother Mexico’s Nacho are served on a bed of crisp blue corn tortilla chips, and topped with a spiced three-bean mix served with smooth guacamole, tangy sour cream and fresh salsa. Picture: DarkLab media

It’s only recently real Mexican food has made its presence felt in Australia. There’s so much more to this cuisine than the supermarket brand we all know and have used for homemade tacos. At Mother Mexico, housemade spice blends include a mix of smoked paprika, cumin, cinnamon, dehydrated habanero chillies and a few other secret ingredients chef Pip Andrews won’t reveal. Andrews has previously worked at Pancho Villa, so knows her haberneroes from her poblanoes and enjoys adding daily specials to the menu. Look out for carne fajitas, taquitos (a small stuffed and rolled tortilla) and marinated prawns.

This evening’s special is calamari salad – fried, spice-crusted rings are beautifully tender and sit atop a fresh salad spiked with salsa and herbs. It’s easy-eating summer food that’s perfect for a warm night.

Mother Mexico’s El Vegano taco, a tasty vegan offering filled with spiced pulled jackfruit. Picture: DarkLab media.

Nachos are a favourite with my husband, and Mother Mexico’s version ($24) is a far cry from standard pub nachos that always seem to come with a side of instant intestinal regret. Served on a bed of shatteringly crisp blue corn tortilla chips, the nachos de Jardin Colgante (nachos of the Hanging Garden) are a spiced three-bean mix served with smooth guacamole, tangy sour cream and a gently spicy pico de gallo (fresh salsa).

We add al pastor pork ($3.50) to complete a delicious plate of contrasting textures and flavours that doesn’t leave us with a nacho hangover an hour later.

The last piece of our Mexican experience is elotes ($6) a much-loved street food snack consisting of corn barbecued on the cob and then slathered with poblano cream and crumbled cojita (a dry, sharp cheese similar to feta). Today’s cobs are quite small, so the team gives us two – a good thing as I doubt I would have got a look in if there’d been only one.

We were here for a good time, not a long time and Mother Mexico delivers with punchy flavours that are designed to go well with a drink and a catch up with friends.