Pitzi, Hobart’s newest pasta bar, serves up a first-rate dining experience worthy of high praise

Alix Davis has eaten a few dud meals in her time as a food writer. But she says a visit to Pitzi – the impressive new Hobart pasta bar from the talented team behind Fico – restored her faith in dining.

Pitzi in Hobart. Picture: Chris Kidd

I’ve had a few dud meals in my time as a food writer. And, gee, it’s no fun going out and then having a meal that makes you wish you’d stayed at home for cheese on toast.

But a visit to Pitzi – the new pasta bar from the talented team at Fico – has restored my faith. Praise be! Everything from the space, to the soundtrack, to the service and, of course, the food, was on point and a thoroughly enjoyable evening was had by all. My dinner companion and I both booked our next visit before we left (walk-ins are welcome as well).

Sea urchin spaghetti at new Hobart restaurant Pitzi. Picture: Supplied

There’s a happy buzz in the room from the moment we arrive. Some well known restaurateurs are gathered at the communal table up front, while groups of two and four populate the elevated rear dining area, where there’s a choice of bar tables with stools, or regular tables and chairs.

The space is decorated with an enormous metal artwork by co-owner Oskar Rossi’s late father, artist Tom Samek. Its colours are repeated in the timber table tops punctuated with dots of coloured glass like a sprinkling of confetti.

We start with a piece of focaccia ($8) – soft and pleasantly oily – that comes with a dish of oil for dipping. I initially think it’s a parmesan oil, but then realise that the umami hit is coming from anchovies in hazelnut oil. Pass me a spoon!

Coffee granita, fernet caramel, panna montata – one of the desserts on the menu at new Hobart restaurant Pitzi. Picture: Supplied

Our next dish is the crispy pork belly ($18) – two pieces of perfectly cooked pork, scattered with porchetta spices (fennel, rosemary, sage and garlic among other things) and sitting on a sorrel leaf. It’s three bites of porky goodness and the crackling has a satisfying crunch to it. The other entree is a dish of fennel salsiccia ($18), a plate of crunchy pickles (many thanks to the server who pointed out that a couple of those were quail eggs, not olives!) and marble-size pork croquettes, perfectly fried and easy to eat in one bite.

Pitzi is owned by husband and wife team Oskar Rossi and Federica Andrisani along with the sous chef from Fico, Dana Gleeson. It’s designed to be a casual alternative to Fico, where you can enjoy a simple (and delicious) bowl of pasta.

Pitzi co-owners Dana Gleeson, Oskar Rossi and Federica Andrisani. Picture: Chris Kidd

Fresh pasta is the main event here and we begin with the tagliatelle Alfredo ($38), which comes topped with plenty of thinly shaved truffle. An Alfredo is a deceptively simple pasta sauce – not much more than cream and Parmigiano. How then, does it taste so good? Each strand of the dense pasta is just-coated with the sauce and there’s enough truffle involved to get a piece in every mouthful. It’s pasta created by masters.

Our second pasta dish is a bowl of delightfully chubby spirals – fusilloni – served with a sauce of wild venison in butter and white wine ($36).

Fusilloni with game ragu, served with a warm Parmigiano fondue (not pictured). Picture: Supplied

The spiral pasta shape catches the sauce and all you need to do is stab a delicate chunk of venison to go with it. It’s hearty without being heavy and a nice departure from a typical ragu.

After a slight lull when we arrived at 7.30pm, the dining room welcomes a new wave of customers about 8.30pm and our server tells us it has been flat out since they opened. The atmosphere is one of relaxed and happy diners, well looked after by hospitality professionals.

Drinks aren’t forgotten either – start with a classic Italian spritz or a Tasmanian gin, vodka or beer. The wine list, with some available by the glass, is fairly evenly split between Italy and Tasmania.

Pitzi in Hobart’s Victoria St. Picture: Chris Kidd

Obviously, we couldn’t leave without dessert and a simple dish of poached apricots (from Federica and Oskar’s backyard) with housemade vanilla gelato drizzled with olive oil ($16) is the ideal way to end the evening. The only way it could have been any better was if we’d ordered one each.

Pitzi is a very welcome addition to the Hobart restaurant scene and I can’t wait for my second (and third) visit.

Strawberry & Cream dessert at new Hobart restaurant Pitzi. Picture: Supplied

Pitzi

4 Victoria St, Hobart

Opening hours: from 4pm Fri-Tues

On the menu

Focaccia with anchovy and hazelnut oil, $8; fennel salsiccia sarda and pickles, $18; crispy pork belly with porchetta spice, $18; tagliatelle Alfredo and truffle, $38; fusilloni with venison, Parmigiano, $36; apricots with vanilla gelato, $16.