New Hobart cafe will boost brunchgoers’ spirits

Saint Hugo’s has something to please everyone, a comfy, spacious venue and efficient, friendly staff – a winning formula I’ll be happy to put to the test again soon, writes Alix Davis

ALIX DAVIS

3 min read

December 4, 2023 - 5:00AM

New cafe Saint Hugo’s, in Montrose, is a welcome addition to the Hobart brunch scene. Picture: Supplied

Food and Wine

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I’m not really much of a weekend brunch person. I realise I’m in the minority here – especially as bottomless brunches featuring bloody marys and mimosas are gaining in popularity – but for me, it tends to disrupt the day. If I’ve eaten brunch, I won’t want any lunch but then I’ll be hungry before dinner time and then eat something and not feel like dinner and oh, it’s a spiral that only ends when I end up eating toast just before bed. Mmmm, toast!

However, a Friday morning brunch is another beast entirely and so it was on a recent Friday that I found myself at Saint Hugo’s in Montrose, thoroughly enjoying brunch before getting on with the rest of my day. Housed in a refurbished church hall, St Hugo’s is a light and airy space with plenty of seating indoors and out. We took a seat inside (that warm spring weather hadn’t quite kicked in yet) and our coffee orders were taken almost immediately, which is always a good sign.

Saint Hugo’s warm, welcoming interior. Picture: Supplied

A quick browse of the menu results in plenty I want to eat, without being completely overwhelmed and I decide on the corn fritters ($21). These come with poached eggs – of which I am not a fan – so I swap those out for halloumi ($5.50) because you can never have too much hot, squeaky cheese. Our server asks if I’m allergic to eggs – I’m not, it’s a preference, not an allergy, but being asked shows a high level of professionalism. My brunching buddy orders the Indo breaky ($22) – add bacon for $5.50 or hash browns for $3.50 – and we barely have time to catch up before our hot drinks have arrived with the plates hot on their heels.

A selection from Saint Hugo’s delicious all-day brunch. Picture: Supplied

My corn fritters come as a serving of three, with a generous portion of fresh avocado on the side, along with a bright herb salad and a dollop of sweet chilli sauce. Slices of freshly fried halloumi are perched on top and it’s hard to know what to dig into first. The fritters are excellent – crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside and studded with fresh corn kernels. The chilli dipping sauce adds a bit of sass and the herb salad marries well with the Asian-influenced flavours. The halloumi is a wild card, but I can’t resist.

The Indo breaky is a hearty serve of Indonesian-style fried rice, with wonderfully rich flavours and a dark, glossy appearance. It’s served with a fried egg, freshly smashed avocado and a scattering of crispy shallots. If you were extra hungry a side of toast ($4) could be put to good use with the avocado, but we do very well without it.

Saint Hugo’s Malaysian chilli prawns. Picture: Supplied

Saint Hugo’s is owned by hospitality veterans Chris and Ange Fidden, who also own Lauderdale’s Angie Sue, so it’s no surprise that this venue has hit the ground running with a well-considered menu and well-trained staff. “The community has been hungry for something like this,” say the couple, who jumped at the chance to purchase the building – which had already been fitted out as a restaurant but never opened – when it came up for sale.

They opened their doors six weeks ago and have been “very busy” ever since. The morning we ate there, a constant stream of customers came in – some to sit down and eat, others to grab a takeaway coffee with a housemade muffin or a morning bun from Pigeon Whole Bakers. The menu is currently very similar to Angie Sue’s, but Chris says that will be changing in the coming months, and there are also plans to open in the evenings early next year to make use of the back room with a bar.

Saint Hugo’s French toast which features lemongrass custard, fresh seasonal fruit, lychee curd, candied nuts, meringue, raspberry dust and fairy floss. Picture: Supplied

While the brunch menu is on offer all day, there are plenty of other menu items that lean a little harder into the lunch end of the scale, including arancini ($15.50), Malaysian prawns ($19) and BBQ pork ribs ($17). And yes, there’s a bottomless brunch ($65 per person for 1½ hours) that includes a selection from the brunch menu as well as a choice of mimosas, Tasmania sparkling and still wine, beer and cider.

Saint Hugo’s has something to please everyone, in a venue that’s comfortable and spacious, with staff who are efficient and friendly. It’s a winning formula and one I’ll be happy to put to the test again soon.