More reasons to seek the Greek

The proprietors and some of the staff may have changed at Urban Greek but the food, service and atmosphere are just as wonderful as ever, according to TasWeekend food writer Alix Davis.

103 Murray St, Hobart

Opening hours: Seven days, 5pm-9.30pm

ON THE MENU

Saganaki, $17.50; Mixed grill platter, $78; Moussaka, $35; Cretan salad, $17.50; Galaktoboureko, $12; Baklava ice cream sandwich, $13.

Though summer has ended, the weather’s still warm in Crete, the largest and most southern of Greece’s 227 inhabited islands. Impossibly clear blue waters lap against rugged cliffs and white sand beaches, carafes of local wine are on every table and the aroma of slow-cooked, char-grilled lamb wafts through narrow streets.

We may not be able to travel to Greece for some time yet, but while we’re waiting for the world to open up again, we can enjoy Cretan hospitality and flavours at Urban Greek. Mention Urban Greek to any Hobart local and they’re bound to respond with enthusiasm – and this popularity plays out night after night as hungry diners fill the restaurant. The hospitality begins as soon as we arrive, with a welcoming hug from the host (don’t worry, we’re regulars – you won’t get a hug if you don’t want one!) and we’re led to our table in the middle of the large dining room. There’s a buzz in the air as a large group celebrates a birthday, couples enjoy a Saturday night date and groups of four and six dine on Greek favourites.

Urban Greek’s Mixed grill platter for two, which is a highlight of the menu inspired by Dim Papanikolaou. Picture: MIREILLE MERLET

While we’re perusing the extensive menu, I order some saganaki ($17.50) and olives ($14) to get started. Saganaki is a slab of kefalotiri, a sharp sheep’s milk cheese, fried and served on a sizzling hot platter with a side of fig jam. Best eaten immediately, it’s salty and sweet and sets the tone for the meal to come. The olives are large and meaty and I can almost imagine I’m sitting in a beachside taverna as I mop up the oil with a chunk of bread. Kolokithokeftedes (zucchini croquettes) ($18) are another traditional entree that will have you dreaming of summers on island time.

The service at Urban Greek has always been exemplary and this evening a napkin is replaced before the one we dropped has seemingly even hit the floor and the beer my husband manages to spill all over himself is mopped up, the glass caught without smashing and a fresh one on the table in record time.

We opt to keep things classic tonight and our table of four orders the Mixed Grill Platter for two ($78) and a serve of Moussaka ($35). Manager Dino Sahlas, who hails from Sparta in southern Greece, tells me that the Paithakia (chargrilled marinated lamb cutlets served with lemon garlic potatoes and tzatziki) ($42) is the most popular dish, “because Greeks and lamb just go together”.

Saganaki, which is fried sheep’s milk cheese, served with a side of fig jam. Picture: MIREILLE MERLET

Another customer favourite is Poseidon’s Plate ($49), a seafood platter of Tasmanian salmon, blue eye trevalla, Pirates Bay octopus and more. “We love our fish in Greece,” says Dino, “but I really think Tasmania has the best fish in the world. The quality is just great.”

Our mains arrive and space is made for the grill platter – a plank piled high with garlicky, slow-cooked lamb, char-grilled chicken, lamb cutlets, loukaniko (pork sausage) and a beef pattie. There’s also moreish lemony potatoes, Greek salad and a side dish of tzatziki and a red capsicum dip. It’s a generous dish and enough to feed four, along with the flavourful beef moussaka and a Cretan salad ($17.50) topped with traditional crunchy, chunky croutons.

Urban Greek’s Baklava ice cream sandwich. Picture: MIREILLE MERLET

Hot tip – if you’re dining with a group (and Urban Greek is perfect for that) opt for one of the banquet menus ($55-$80 per person). You’ll take the pressure off ordering and enjoy their most popular dishes without having to worry about who ordered what at the end of the night.

Urban Greek’s popular Galaktoboureko dessert. Picture: Mireille Merlet

My husband’s favourite dessert is galaktoboureko – a confection of filo pastry and custard that’s found in bakeries all over Greece. It’s on the menu here and doesn’t disappoint – creamy custard and crisp filo is a winning combination. Baklava is another popular Greek sweet and here it’s turned into an ice cream sandwich with pistachio ice cream and nutty, honey syrup-soaked baklava. It’s big enough to share, but tonight has a “everyone gets their own dessert” vibe to it and who am I to argue?

Urban Greek chef Amrit Baniya and restaurant manager Konstantinos Sahlas. Picture: Mireille Merlet

The original owners of Urban Greek recently returned to Crete and the new proprietors have been at the helm for 12 months now. Some of the staff have changed, but the food, service and atmosphere are just as wonderful as ever. “Greek food is simple flavours and eating here is like eating at grandma’s,” says Dino. As our plates are cleared, and the next seating begins to arrive, our hug-happy host arrives bearing shots of mastica, a pine resin-based digestif from the island of Chios that is a fitting end to our Hobart “holiday” in Greece.