Fave old pub’s new menu and reno will have you hooked

If you’re looking for an upscale pub meal in a beautiful venue the new pavilion-like dining room at this Battery Point institution, is well worth checking out, writes TasWeekend’s Alix Davis

Classic old pub, the Shipwright’s Arms in Battery Point, has undergone a major reno and is now offering patrons a new upscale menu as well as a beautiful, new modern, airy and light dining space. Picture: Linda Higginson

The main bar at the Shipwrights Arms Hotel – or Shippies as it’s fondly known – is a noisy place to be on the afternoon of December 28. Crew members from the supermaxis, who completed the Sydney-Hobart Race in the early hours of the morning, are in full flight trading stories from the high seas past and present. The vibe is rollicking, the drinks are flowing and the decibel level is turned up to 11.

It’s a different story when we return a couple of weeks later – the public bar is laid-back but busy with locals, regulars and the occasional tourist who has wandered up from Salamanca. We meet up with friends and enjoy a drink or two there before making our way into the newly renovated and reopened restaurant. And wow, what a transformation! Dark and moody vertical timbers line the walls and crisp, freshly-sewn pennants guide the way to two separate dining areas and an intimate bar.

A low-ceilinged passageway opens up into a beautifully airy, light-filled space known as Shoal – a pavilion-like room with an indoor/outdoor vibe and a pale stone fireplace as its anchor. Expansive glass doors can be opened in good weather and are subtly scribed with seafaring and shipbuilding quotes.

The new beautifully airy, light-filled contemporary dining area at Shippies, known as Shoal. Picture: Linda Higginson

The menu is true to its pub roots with a focus on local seafood and a sophisticated twist on some favourites. We begin with Maria Island calamari ($21) – a plate of crisply battered calamari pieces on a bed of miso aioli and drizzled with tamarind caramel. The calamari is tender and the caramel has more than one of us wiping the plate with a surreptitious finger.

Our other share entree is the Stanley Bay octopus ($20) – fat tentacles that have been lightly grilled and are served with a garlicky skordalia (a traditional Greek sauce, here made with beans rather than potatoes), nduja that has a real kick to it, confit potatoes and crispy squid ink tapioca crackers. It’s a riot of colours, textures and flavours that works well.

Shippies’ crisply battered, tender Maria Island calamari, which is served on a bed of miso aioli and drizzled with tamarind caramel. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

Although it’s a Monday night and the space is large, the acoustics are good – thanks to baffles in the timber ceiling and the soft leather banquette seating that lines one wall. In addition to the main dining room, there are two rooms available for private dining or events – these were originally small cottages on the property but have now been seamlessly incorporated.

Facing Trumpeter St is Slip, a small and moody dining area that I’m looking forward to visiting in winter. It’s furnished with custom leather seats and features a stunning artwork by Tasmanian artist Joshua Andree.

Service is swift and efficient with daily specials given soon after we are seated.

Tonight’s special is orange-miso salmon fillet (market price), served in a fragrant broth full of vegetables and a noodle cake that’s crisp on the outside and soft inside. I have instant food envy! The only thing missing was a spoon so my friend could slurp up the broth, but that’s easily remedied.

Shippies’ Pork Belly, which features generous chunks of pork crowned with crispy crackling and served with thin slices of red wine-poached pear and roasted cauliflower. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

I opted for the pork belly ($35) – a cut I love but rarely cook at home. Generous chunks of pork are crowned with satisfyingly crispy crackling and served with thin slices of red wine-poached pear and roasted cauliflower. The fresh and tangy kohlrabi slaw cuts through the richness of the pork and the mashed potato is soft and comforting.

We have a couple of steak lovers in our party and both the eye fillet ($44) and the porterhouse ($39) are cooked perfect to medium as requested. Each comes with a side dish and a sauce or mustard. No complaints at all from that end of the table. Our final main is a classic seafood pie ($38), which is stuffed with local seafood and topped with a glossy puff pastry lid. It’s simple and done well. A side dish of broccolini with paprika-smoked almonds features crisp-tender greens, but I’d prefer to see the butter tossed through them than as a pat on top.

Shippies’ Bomb Alaska dessert. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

Our summer focused desserts are a sweet finish to the meal – bomb Alaska ($14) comes as a slice rather than the dome we were expecting but the peanut butter parfait is wonderfully light.

The mere mention of a banana split ($14) lights up my husband’s eyes and this sophisticated, adult version features dense banana bread topped with a caramelised banana, banana mousse and ice cream.

If you’re looking for an upscale pub meal in a beautiful environment, set your course for Shippies.

The Shipwright’s Arms at Battery Point. Picture: Linda Higginson

SHIPWRIGHT’S ARMS HOTEL

29 Trumpeter St, Battery Point

Opening hours: 11.30am-11pm,

Seven days

On the menu

Maria Island calamari, $21; Stanley Bay octopus, $20; eye fillet steak, $44; fish pie $38; pork belly with kohlrabi slaw, $35; bomb Alaska, $14; banana split, $14