Classic pub fare at revamped Moonah Hotel cuts the mustard

There’s good eating to be had at the refurbished Moonah Hotel & Cellars – the meals are generously portioned, well-priced and served by friendly and staff. What more could one want from a pub meal, asks TasWeekend food writer Alix Davis.

The Moonah Hotel’s sirloin steak, smoked sausage, eggplant parmie and apple and fennel coleslaw. Picture: Ali Davis

SITTING by an open fire with a tap beer in his hand and a steak in front of him is pretty much my husband’s idea of heaven, so he was thrilled when a recent visit to the newly revamped Moonah Hotel & Cellars unfolded to include that exact scenario.

Long known as the “Mustard Pot” thanks to its violently orange paint job, the Moonah Hotel is now a chic black and white beacon along the busy Moonah strip. Don’t worry, it’s still a pub with plenty of beers on tap, pub classics on the menu and a comfortingly 1980s pub rock soundtrack.

The Moonah Hotel’s sirloin steak, smoked sausage, eggplant parmie and apple and fennel coleslaw. Picture: Ali Davis

We kick off with a drink and, as well as 12 beers on tap (including local ales and lagers), there are gluten-free and non-alcoholic beers plus a wide variety of wines by the glass and some tasty alcohol-free fruit sodas. While ZZ Top plays in the background, we make our dinner selection from a menu that features familiar favourites as well as a few surprises.

The Moonah Hotel’s sirloin steak is a generous serve and at $30, is excellent value. Picture: Ali Davis

First up is a plate of sliced, smoked sausage ($18) accompanied by tangy, crunchy pickles, a wholegrain mustard dipping sauce and plenty of chargrilled slices of sourdough slathered in olive oil. It’s very Eastern European and utterly delicious – the kind of food that pairs well with a cold beer. It’s presented (as are all our meals) in old-school enamel plates and dishes that add a charming touch.

Our mains arrive to a refrain from Roxy Music and we immediately tuck into the hot chips that are included as a side with both meals. I’ve eaten a lot of hot chips in my time and these are hands-down right up there. They’re unpeeled, giving them a slightly raffish and rustic air and are neither too skinny nor too chunky. There’s no batter or coating getting between me and a perfectly salted, fried piece of potato. They’re delicious by themselves and also pretty fab when dipped in green peppercorn sauce or the pot of mustard sauce I’d held onto in anticipation of just this moment.

The Moonah Hotel’s vegetarian version of the classic chicken parmie – the eggplant parmie accompanied by some perfectly salted and sized fried chips. Picture Ali Davis

My chips were accompanied by an eggplant parmigiana ($24), a vegetarian version of the classic chicken parmie – which is also on the menu. The eggplant still had a bit of bite to it and was crumbed, topped with a rich tomato sauce and draped with melted cheese – an excellent rendition of a favourite. The side salad was plentiful and fresh, with just enough dressing.

The Moonah Hotel’s sirloin steak; slices of tasty smoked sausage accompanied by tangy, crunchy pickles. Picture: Ali Davis

Our other main was the sirloin ($30), cooked to medium, with pepper sauce on the side along with the chips and salad. It was a generous serve without being ridiculously large and the meals are excellent value. A side dish of apple and fennel coleslaw ($8) with a buttermilk dressing was obviously freshly dressed – no sad and soggy salads to be seen here!

The hotel has been revamped by Benn Hooper and the Fox Friday team, who also have a nano brewery on Murray St in the CBD. The bright and airy dining room is set with tables for groups of various sizes and tonight, a Tuesday, it’s buzzing with couples, families and groups of friends.

Benn Hooper who along with the Fox Friday team has revamped the Moonah Hotel.

There’s an open fire in the main room and a wood heater in the front bar, and when the weather is right, there’s also a beer garden for enjoying drinks and food al fresco.

Happily, we’ve got room for dessert and decide that the dulcet tones of Angus Young and ACDC pair well with an Eton mess ($10). We’re not wrong. Crisp broken meringue is enveloped in a cloud of whipped cream and topped with macerated strawberries. It’s a generous serving but duelling spoons ensure that I end up with slightly more than my fair share and I’m not sorry. It’s a simple dessert, but here it’s been done well and I’m glad we saved room for it.

The Moonah Hotel’s Eton mess dessert which features shards of meringue enveloped in a cloud of whipped cream and fresh berries. Picture: Ali Davis

There’s good eating to be had in Moonah and the Moonah Hotel & Cellars is an excellent addition to the suburb’s line-up. The meals are generously portioned, well priced and served by friendly and attentive staff – what more could one want from a pub meal?

As Cold Chisel serenades us back onto the street, I can tell my husband is already adding it to the rota of “places he likes to eat” and I’m sure we’ll be back soon.

MOONAH HOTEL & CELLARS

99 Main Rd, Moonah

Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 12-9pm, Friday 12-10pm, Saturday 11am-10pm, Sunday 11am-9pm.

ON THE MENU

Smoked sausage with pickles and mustard, $18; sirloin with chips & salad, $30; eggplant parmigiana with chips & salad, $24; apple & fennel slaw $8; Eton mess, $10.

Caption

Clockwise from left: The Moonah Hotel’s sirloin steak; slices of tasty smoked sausage accompanied by tangy, crunchy pickles; eggplant parmie; and the Eton mess which features shards of meringue enveloped in a cloud of whipped cream and fresh berries.