Australia’s first Nepalese pub is SoHo superb

A Tasmanian doctor says his decision to open a Nepalese restaurant in a former SoHo pub was a massive risk. But it turns out it’s a gamble that’s paid off as the locals flock to it.

THE CHOWK

124 Davey St, Hobart

Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 12-9pm, Fri 12-10pm, Sat 4pm - 10pm, Sun 4-9pm

On the menu

Chicken momo, $10.50; Birgunj ko Chatpate (beaten rice salad), $10.50; Airport ko Sekuwa (chargrilled goat skewers), $21; Annapurna Base Camp ko Chowmein (stir-fry vegetable chowmein), $15; Lal Mahan (dumplings in syrup), $9; Makhamali mocktail, $11.

Dinner at a pub quite often involves a TV screen or three playing an endless loop of sport, a visual distraction I do not find endearing in any way. A meal at The Chowk, the newish Nepalese-owned pub in South Hobart offers something different on their screens – a glimpse into the mountains and lifestyle of Nepal. It’s a fitting backdrop to a bar and dining area that’s decorated with prayer flags, has Nepali music playing and serves exclusively Nepali food.

I’m dining alone tonight so am free to indulge my love of spicy food without upsetting anyone. And indulge I do. My entree is Birgunj ko Chatpate ($10.50), a tangy, crunchy salad of beaten rice, dried noodles, soybeans and tomatoes flecked with coriander and green chilli. It’s served in a paper corn with a wedge of lemon for squeezing over the top. It’s fresh and full of flavour and it’s only the fact that I have three more dishes coming that stops me from polishing off the lot.

The Chowk’s much-loved Nepalese dumplings chicken momo. Picture: Linda Higginson

Momo are the much-loved dumplings of Nepal and I order a serve of the chicken variety ($14) but there’s also a vegetarian option available. The generous serve of 10 boiled dumplings is accompanied by a dish of housemade tomato sauce and the chicken filling is gently spiced with curry powder. These would make a great snack with beers, and there are plenty of bottled and tap brews on offer, including Nepalese beers. I’m halfway through my dumplings when the clock strikes 6 and we all stand to honour the Nepalese and Australian anthems (including our little-heard second verse). This happens every night and diners are given the heads up by a notice delivered to each table by the wait staff. It’s a nice touch and a diner at a table near me sings along to the Nepalese anthem.

Annapurna Base Camp ko Chowmein, which is a generous serve of tasty noodles tossed with vegetables, packed with flavour. Picture: Linda Higginson

The Chowk opened in October, taking over what had previously been the Soho Hotel. Owned by Dr Kirin Thapa, the venue is Australia’s only Nepalese pub and offers Nepali live music nights in addition to food. Nepali is Tasmania’s third-most-spoken language after English and Mandarin, with almost 10,000 Nepalese making Hobart their home. “It was an accidental decision,” says Thapa with a laugh. “I was looking for a venue to open a dessert bar to diversify from the flower farm during the pandemic. I saw the Soho, it was much bigger than what I’d been looking for but I discussed it with the team and we decided to take a massive gamble.”

It’s a gamble that’s paid off as The Chowk is gaining popularity with South Hobart locals, Tasmania’s Nepalese population and out of state visitors. “We offer authentic food, music and festivals. Everything I conceived of has now been implemented.” Thapa owns Purple Love, a flower farm in Orielton that grows gomphrena globosa – also known as makhamali. These tiny purple flowers are put to use in the drinks menu for a makhamali-infused gin cocktail as well as a refreshing mocktail.

Airport ko Sekuwa which features marinated goat skewers cooked in the tandoor oven and served with beaten rice. Picture: Linda Higginson

My mains arrive and one of the house specials is Airport ko Sekuwa ($21), marinated goat skewers cooked in the tandoor oven and served with beaten rice. The marinade has a nice kick of chilli and the meat is charred and tender. Beaten rice is a common ingredient in Nepalese cooking – it’s essentially flattened rice and it can be served crunchy or soft. Here it’s plain and crunchy and, although it’s delicious and the skewers come with a dipping sauce, I found a mouthful of beaten rice quite dry. My other main is Annapurna Base Camp ko Chowmein ($15), a generous serve of noodles tossed with vegetables (there’s also a chicken version available). This is packed with flavour, but not spicy and I know my husband would love it.

One of the The Chowk’s desserts Lal Mahan, which are delicious fried dumplings, that are coated in a sweet syrup flavoured with a dash of rosewater. Picture: Linda Higginson

I finish with a dessert variations of which are found throughout the subcontinent and the Middle East as well as parts of southern Europe. Here it’s called Lal Mahan ($9) and is described as “milk solids and flour deep fried and served in syrup”, which does it no justice at all. These deliciously dense dumplings are fried and then coated in and served with a tooth-achingly-sweet syrup flavoured with a dash of rosewater. In India they’re known as gulab jamon and in the Middle East there’s a variety called luquaimat. Move further west and in Greece you’ll find loukamades – a doughnut dunked in syrup. They’re all delicious and The Chowk’s version is a high note on which to finish.