Tassie’s newest destination dining hot spot is worth the drive

Overlooking the ocean on Tasmania’s picturesque East Coast this inn, formerly a classic pub, is now serving delicious, simple, and seasonal food, writes TasWeekend food reviewer Alix Davis.

THE WATERLOO INN

1A Franklin St, Swansea

OPENING HOURS: Dinner Wed, Thurs; Lunch and dinner Fri- Sat; Lunch Sunday

On the menu

Fried chicken, $16; stracciatella, $18; profiteroles with goats cheese, $16; pappardelle with goat ragu, $34; pork with beans and fennel, $34; sticky date pudding, $14.

Don’t let the unassuming exterior fool you – behind the face brick, the neon signs and the grim car park lies one of the best meals I’ve eaten recently. Opened in 1989 by the then minister for tourism, sport and recreation, The Waterloo Inn lives in the basement of the Waterloo Point hotel, at the tip of Swansea, nestled between the beach and the golf course. Over the years it’s seen plenty of locals enjoy a beer and a game of pool and now, under the guidance of chef Zac Green (ex Movida) and front of house impresario Alex Sumner it’s offering diners an ever-changing menu and a well-curated list of mostly natural wines.

They weren’t really looking to start something, but when Green and Sumner walked into the dining room last October – complete with patterned carpet, patterned curtains and a view out to Great Oyster Bay – they looked at each other and said, “I think we’re going to open a restaurant.” And I’m so glad they did.

Waterloo Inn’s half cray with Russian salad. Picture: Anna Critchley.

As soon as we walk in, Sumner greets us at the bar with the offer of a drink – local craft beers, “crunchy” ciders and natural wines. Take a photo of the menu scrawled on the chalkboard before heading to your table, then, when you’ve decided what you want (everything), head back to the bar to order. The menu changes daily – and sometimes during service – depending on what’s happening in the kitchen, where Green is a one-man show.

The Waterloo Inn at Swansea, was once a classic pub. Picture Anna Critchley.

We start with fried chicken with black pepper mayo ($16), stracciatella with housemade sweet chilli sauce ($18), and profiteroles stuffed with goats cheese ($16). The boneless chicken pieces have a light, crispy batter and the mayo is flecked with pepper and a vinegary tang. The creamy stracciatella comes with satisfyingly thick slices of sourdough and is a witty take on the pub favourite of wedges with sour cream and sweet chilli sauce. I could eat it twice.

Waterloo Inn’s mussels in Vandouan spiced coconut milk. Picture: Anna Critchley

The profiteroles remind me of tricked-up cheese and bikkies – a light-as-air choux puff is filled with mild goats cheese and drizzled with a quince glaze.

“There’s a bit of an expectation in Tasmania that we’ve grown or foraged everything ourselves,” says Alex with a laugh. “We make the trip into Hobart once a week to pick up supplies and we do get things delivered. That being said, our three chickens – all called Tina – did provide the eggs for the profiteroles, and we also foraged the mushrooms ourselves. We only make our own stracciatella when we’re feeling romantic though.”

Since opening in December, they’ve attracted plenty of social media attention, “which does put a bit of pressure on us when people are driving specifically to eat here.”

Waterloo Inn’s Vitello Tonnato. Picture: Anna Critchley

They’re more than up to the job. Goat ragu with dense, housemade pappardelle ($34) is the first of our mains to arrive. The goat is fall-apart tender and the sauce is rich and flavourful without being overpowering. The pasta is thick and al dente, the perfect foil for the sauce.

Next up is a side dish of polenta and the aforementioned foraged mushrooms ($14). Thin polenta, with a hint of parmesan, is topped with pine mushrooms, some left whole and others in chunks, all enveloped in a velvety sauce.

The Waterloo Inn’s dishes such as the shoulder of lamb and seasonal vegies, pictured here, are ideal for sharing. Picture: Anna Critchley.

Our stomachs are bulging, but we know that loyal readers are hungry for more so we eagerly dive into our second main – braised pork with fennel and beans ($34). Generous chunks of tender pork swim in a bowl of kidney beans and meltingly soft fennel, seasoned with a healthy handful of fresh dill. It’s the perfect winter meal – the sun is shining over the Hazards across the bay, but the wind has a bite to it and the hardy souls who sat outside are rapidly donning coats and beanies.

Waterloo Inn at Swansea with views out to the Hazards. Picture: Anna Critchley.

Although she’s the only person on the floor (they designed the restaurant to be able to run with just the two of them), Alex is calm and friendly – happy to stop for a chat about how it’s all going and any future plans. They won’t be changing the gloriously nostalgic 80s vibe of the place, but are hoping to utilise the outdoor area a little better.

After almost 14 years together, I discovered recently that my husband doesn’t like sticky toffee pudding ($14). So I ordered it for dessert, looking forward to having the whole lot to myself. No chance. He managed to overcome his aversion to this most comforting of puddings and manfully ate his half. What a trooper.

The Waterloo Inn is worth the drive, and I look forward to returning for the set menu Sunday lunch and a stay in Swansea.