This CBD eatery offers classic Asian fare at sizzling good prices
This Hobart Teppanyaki restaurant’s traditional, flavour-packed dishes are both generous in size and terrific value – making it a great option for either lunch or dinner, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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I have a childhood memory – forgotten until now – of visiting a Japanese restaurant in suburban Perth. Well, I call it a restaurant, but really, it was dinner and show. We took our places at seats that surrounded a large hot plate and the chef began to cook. Eggs flew through the air and were cracked in flight by the swift slice of a spatula, prawn tails seemingly levitated into the chef’s pocket and freshly grilled meats were expertly sliced and then, as if by magic, neatly arranged in our bowls. It was quite the evening.
My recent visit to Teppanyaki Legend in the CBD wasn’t quite such an extravaganza but you can still watch the chefs at work, thanks to a large pane of glass that separates the kitchen from bench seating. We forgo the front row seats and choose a booth instead – perfectly sized for four people (six at a squeeze). The pint-sized restaurant is decorated with a nod to Japanese style and a large mural of Hokusai’s famous Wave off Kanagawa woodblock print at the far end. This instantly recognisable print still feels fresh and modern yet, incredibly, was created in 1831.
We begin with a bowl of steamed edamame – those bright green and lightly salted soybeans that pop satisfyingly into your mouth. The menu is colourful, with every dish photographed, so, even if you don’t know what teishoku is (and I didn’t) you can see what you’ll be getting. We go ahead and order the teishoku – a typical Japanese set meal that includes a protein, rice, miso soup and edamame or vegetables. There are a number of options and we decide on the grilled pork belly ($17.90) – thick slices of fatty pork belly have been cooked on the griddle and then slathered in a sweet and savoury sauce. The meat is tender and rich, the sauce is just the right mix of flavours, a separate bowl of rice is perfect for mopping up the extra sauce and the miso soup is a refreshing palate cleanser.
Teppanyaki is a post World War II style of cooking that uses a teppan (the metal cooking plate) to grill or pan-fry (yaki) food. It is thought to have been introduced in 1945 by the restaurant chain Misono and the showy style of cooking soon became popular with Western tourists.
Our next dish is yakisoba with beef ($15.50), a sizzling cast-iron plate of dense and chewy noodles with strips of beef and vegetables. The sweet/savoury sauce typical of this style of cooking is a mixture of ketchup, soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce and this satisfying dish is one I’d happily eat for lunch any day of the week. Everything’s cooked on the teppan and it’s fun to watch the chefs adroitly handling the various components of each dish before pulling them all together to serve.
Teppanyaki Legend is owned by Harry Lee (who also has Giddy Up in Sandy Bay) and his wife, Alfa, is the chef. While they hail from Hong Kong rather than Japan, Harry says they saw a hole in the Hobart market for casual Japanese dining that wasn’t sushi. “We wanted to do something different.” Harry says that the okonomiyaki is the most popular dish, and his favourite is the beef patty with omelette and fried rice. “We make the patty ourselves with an extra ingredient.”
Our final dish is an okonomiyaki – traditional Japanese streetfood. This “pancake” of batter and finely shredded cabbage can be topped with anything from meat and seafood to wasabi and cheese. The name of the dish is a clue to its versatility – okonomi literally means “to one’s liking”. The dish is available all over Japan, but is particularly popular in the cities of Hiroshima and Osaka. We pick a version topped with grilled chicken ($15.90) and are rewarded with a generous dish that can be shared between two. Surprisingly, it’s quite a rich dish – perhaps a result of the mayo on top. Finely shaved bonito (dried fish) is also a hallmark of okonomiyaki and here the shavings dance delicately in the heat of the pancake.
Teppanyaki Legend is great value, serving traditional, flavour-packed dishes in generous portions. The menu is large enough that there will be something to suit everyone, without being overwhelming and pushing you into decision paralysis. Finish with a vibrant green matcha soft serve ($5) and lunch or dinner is done.
TEPPANYAKI LEGEND
60 Liverpool St, Hobart
Opening hours:
Monday - Friday, 11am- 3pm and 5pm - 9pm
On the menu
Yakisoba, $15.50; teishoku, $17.90; okonomiyaki with chicken, $15.50; matcha soft serve, $5
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