Seasoned crew behind revamped pub take food, service to next level
Refurbished old pub The Waggon is a stylish addition to Hobart’s pub and restaurant scene, writes TasWeekend’s Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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The north end of Argyle St was quiet when we ventured out for dinner recently. But as we drew closer to The Waggon, a warm glow emanated from its gently arched windows and inside we could see tables full of smiling faces. A good sign.
Previously known as The Waggon and Horses, this neighbourhood pub is almost 180 years old and has recently emerged from a complete renovation inside and out.
Gone are the gaming machines and late-night rowdiness, replaced with a stylish fitout, family-friendly dining establishment run by Hobart hospitality veterans.
The corner entrance opens directly into the dining room – spacious and airy with a sinuous light installation and large-scale art decorating the walls and acting as a screen between dining area and bar.
In the corners are large, cozy booths, perfect for groups, and both are occupied the night we visit. Other tables are arranged along an upholstered banquette and can be moved to accommodate smaller and larger groups. Carpeted floors and acoustic ceiling tiles mean this is a space for conversation, not just smiling and nodding.
We begin with a selection of smaller plates ($17 each or three for $45). My husband is interested in the chicken dagwood dog (chicken thighs encased in a cornmeal batter) but backs away when co-owner Paul Wensor explains that instead of a traditional stick or skewer, it’s presented on a chicken foot. “A real chicken foot?” asks my husband. “Yes,” says Paul.
We order the marinated zucchini on toast instead. Paper-thin slices of zucchini are draped over cashew cream atop slices of grainy toast, and I love the delicate flavours paired with the heavier texture of the toast. Our second small plate is the cheeseburger croquettes – a perfectly deep-fried mouthful that combines everything you love about a cheeseburger into one (or two) exquisite bite. Honestly, the first bite of a cheeseburger is always the best. Am I right?
Our final starter is fried green tomatoes – three slices of crumbed and fried tomatoes served with tender sugar-smoked eggplant, goat’s cheese and flash-fried herbs. The crunchy coating contrasts with the creamy eggplant and it’s a delicious celebration of summer flavours.
The Waggon is now owned by Al Derham, Paul Wensor and head chef Klaa Clements – a team that worked together at Derham’s previous pub, The New Sydney, and as the launch crew for Huonville’s Lost Captain. They’re seasoned professionals and it shows in the service and the food.
Waitstaff are happy to explain dishes, a new round of drinks is offered promptly, and one server even offers to bring her phone over so I can get some better light for my terrible food photos.
While it’s just the two of us this evening, I’m keen to come back with a group to try their dishes for a crowd – a 1.2kg Tomahawk steak with all the trimmings ($180) or perhaps a whole suckling pig, ordered five days in advance ($800).
When I return with my posse, I’ll also be cosying up in the chic lounge area tucked next to the front door – perfect for pre or post-dinner drinks. Of course, if you’d just like to drop in for a schooner and a parmi, that’s on offer, too, with a spacious public bar with plenty of seating, and artwork, available.
I order the rotisserie cauliflower ($36) and it’s one of the prettiest dishes I’ve been served in quite a while. The pale cauliflower, pastel pink radishes and coconut yoghurt are presented on a mint green plate and I literally gasp with delight. The flavours are delicate and I’d probably like the cauliflower to be roasted for slightly longer to give it real tenderness, but it’s a lovely dish and an excellent vegetarian option.
My meat-loving husband opts for the wagyu shin ($36), a fall-apart tender piece of beef that’s glazed with a rich jus and served with a creamy mash and vegetables. He’s very happy with his selection and only reluctantly lets me have a bite.
Having experienced some of this team’s desserts on previous occasions, I leave room for a sweet treat to end our meal. While I’m partial to an Eton mess, Paul steers us towards the salted caramel lamington ($15). This Willie Wonka-style creation is big enough to share between two (or more) and the lamington comes topped with marshmallowy raspberry mousse, a cloud of Persian fairy floss and studded with chunks of honeycomb. I love the dense cake of the lamington contrasted against the airy marshmallow and can’t wait to try their other desserts on my next visit.
The Waggon’s wheels are turning and it’s a stylish addition to Hobart’s pub and restaurant scene.
THE WAGGON
327 Argyle St, North Hobart
Opening hours: Seven days, 12pm-10pm.
On the menu:
Marinated zucchini toast, $17; fried green tomatoes, $17; cheeseburger croquettes, $17; wagyu shin, $36; rotisserie cauliflower, $36; salted caramel lamington, $15.
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