New Hobart European-inspired bistro is effortlessly stylish

Dinner at this new Sandy Bay eatery is a casual but chic affair with a cohesive menu and friendly staff, writes Alix Davis.

Six Russell in Sandy Bay which recently opened a classy European-inspired bistro, through a whimsical tunnel, off its popular bakery. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

What’s that rustling noise you can hear coming from Sandy Bay?

It’s the sound of satisfied customers dusting pastry crumbs off themselves as they sip their coffee at the suburb’s newest bakery/cafe/providore, Six Russell.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking this is just another cafe – Six Russell is the cousin of Hobart highlights Dier Makr and Lucinda with Kobi Ruzicka as culinary director and coffee expertise provided by Bryan Teo formerly of Area 2Be. There’s a (fast-moving) queue every time I drive past and it’s only my powers of self-restraint that are stopping me from indulging in a croissant or escargot every time I drop into Coles (conveniently located directly opposite).

While the bakery and cafe fulfil my pastry needs during daylight hours, the recently opened Six Russell Bistro (through a whimsical tunnel off the bakery) is the European-inspired bistro Sandy Bay has been waiting for.

Dinner here is a casual but chic affair with a cohesive menu and staff who are friendly and professional.

Bryan Teo and Kobi Ruzicka, of Six Russell in Sandy Bay, recently opened a classy bistro to accompany their popular bakery. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

We begin with a few little bites to whet the appetite. The tomato and stracciatella tart ($14) is small and perfectly formed – a delicate shell of the shortest of pastries filled with fresh cheese, the ripest of late summer’s tomatoes and showered in petals and herbs. It’s so pretty I can hardly bear to eat it, but eat it I do.

Corn and fenugreek panisse ($12) are two crispy “chips” made with chickpea flour, a dish that originated in the south of France. Studded with corn and maple syrup-flavoured fenugreek, the crisp exterior and almost custardy interior make this delicious bite a lovely accompaniment to a cocktail if you’re just dropping into the ‘laneway’ for a drink or two.

The oyster selection (Pittwater, Boomer Bay or John’s reserve ($5-$9 per) also make for a great snack with a glass of something, as does the abalone Rockefeller ($12).

Six Russell Bistro’s tomato and stracciatella tart, features a delicate shell of the shortest of pastries filled with fresh cheese, the ripest of late summer’s tomatoes and is showered in petals and herbs. Picture: SUPPLIED

Six Russell’s Pommes boulangere, are ‘a wonderful spiral of carby deliciousness’, with a crisp, golden top which is a nice contrast to its creamy interior. Picture SUPPLIED

The quality of the food here comes as no surprise given that Ruzicka is the culinary director. He’s been working on the project for a while now and before it opened to the public, Six Russell was supplying bread and pastries to cafes around town. Sure, you can get a croissant here (and believe me, I have), but make sure you also try one of the more unusual offerings – like a pork, chorizo & hot honey bun ($8), a kale, basil & pesto bun ($8) or a lemon, thyme and honey croissant ($7).

Coffee beans are supplied by Single O and it can all be enjoyed in the laneway seating or to takeaway. In addition to the pastries, there’s French Lescure butter, cheeses from Maker & Monger, a selection of tinned fish, vinegars and French chips that will make any evening at home in front of Netflix a fancy affair.

Six Russell Bistro’s mushroom spaetzle, features tiny nuggets of pasta in a creamy sauce of mixed mushrooms with an egg yolk to stir through. Picture: SUPPLIED

But back to our bistro meal and we can’t go past a classic steak au poivre and there are three cuts to choose from, we select the Black Angus eye fillet ($50) and it’s presented sliced and easy to share.

The mushroom spaetzle ($34) is excellent – tiny nuggets of pasta in a creamy sauce of mixed mushrooms with an egg yolk to stir through to thicken it even further. It’s hearty without being heavy and, paired with the “well dressed” (and beautifully presented) salad ($14), would be a great meal by itself.

Seafood options include a classic rainbow trout almondine ($38) and a ling and crab ballotine ($40).

Six Russell Bistro’s classic steak au poivre is served sliced and ready to share. Picture: SUPPLIED

Potatoes are not to be missed here and you have a choice of three (no judgment if you order all of them). A friend swears by the “very good mash” ($12), but we opt for the pomme boulangere ($16) – literally baker’s potatoes. These have been cooked long and slow with onions and stock and are a wonderful spiral of carby deliciousness. The crisped, golden top is a nice contrast to the creamy interior.

And if you want to keep it classic, there are also frites with bearnaise sauce ($10).

And so we come to dessert and a rum baba ($20) that has been slightly bruleed and served with a scoop of vanilla diplomat – a light pastry cream. If it wasn’t a school night, we’d be tempted by the selection of postprandial digestifs and make a promise to try them another time. Because it won’t be long before we’re back for another visit.

Six Russell in Sandy Bay which recently opened a classy European-inspired bistro, through a tunnel off its bakery. Picture: Nikki Davis-Jones

SIX RUSSELL

6 Russell Cres,

Sandy Bay

Opening hours:

Bakery – Mon-Fri, 6.30am-2pm, Sat-Sun, 7am-1pm; Bistro –

Wed-Sat, 5pm-10pm

On the menu

Tomato and stracciatella tart, $14; corn & fenugreek panisse, $12; steak au poivre, $50; mushroom spaetzle, $34; pommes boulangere, $16; rum baba, $20