All grown up: Hobart waterfront institution hooks seafood lovers with sophisticated revamp

If it has been a while since you’ve visited this acclaimed Hobart eatery it’s worth making a booking and experiencing genuine Tasmanian seafood and excellent service, writes Alix Davis

The newly-refurbished Mures Upper Deck restaurant. Picture: Mures Tasmania

With a commitment to an all-over inky blue paint job and soft lights that float like jellyfish over the main dining room, an evening at the newly refurbished Mures Upper Deck is an under-the-sea experience. The decor is minimal and sophisticated, with just an oversized photograph adorning the walls, and the focus is on Tasmanian seafood, much of it directly from the Mures’ fleet.

Our international guest had requested a local seafood meal and Mures Upper Deck, with its view of the fishing fleet below, delivered.

Mures Upper Deck's Kingfish crudo. Picture: Mures Tasmania

Tasmanian Scallops at Mures Upper Deck. Pictures: Mures Tasmania

Great staff is key to any hospitality venture and the team here couldn’t have been more helpful. Our assigned table was not in a great position so we requested another and within moments and without any fuss, we were moved to a lovely table in a quieter area with a view of the marina. Thank you!

While there’s plenty to please seafood lovers on the extensive menu, we decided to take the path of least resistance and ordered the Taste of Tasmania Share Table ($98 per person). Tasmanian Pacific oysters are included on this menu, but they’d be wasted on us and we asked our server if we could swap them for the kingfish crudo and she immediately said that wouldn’t be a problem – no checking with the kitchen or prevaricating over price. Thank you, again!

The sophisticated decor of the newly-refurbished Mures Upper Deck restaurant. Picture: Mures Tasmania

With service like this, the evening was off to a good start and the first dishes of the tasting menu continued the vibe. The yellowtail kingfish crudo ($28) was lightly dressed with a chardonnay vinaigrette and delicate pops of fingerlime and capers. The fish was meltingly tender and the flavours were delicate.

Tasmanian scallops ($27) were presented with roe, on the shell, and nestled in a bed of lightly crushed peas and mint. A scallop-scented foam was draped over the top and a dusting of wakame powder gave another little hint of the sea. This was one of our favourite dishes of the night – a generous portion and the flavour and texture of the peas was outstanding.

There’s an extensive Tasmanian wine-list here as well as a good selection of alcohol-free options. It’s always nice for non-drinkers to have something more exciting than fizzy water.

Blistered green beans at Mures Upper Deck. Picture: Mures Tasmania

My husband isn’t a huge seafood eater, but will often order a seafood pasta dish – so he was thrilled when a tangle of linguine and fresh seafood arrived at the table ($39). The sauce was briny and garlicky, thanks to olives and capers and the seafood included calamari, mussels, prawns and fish, with a little hit of yuzu to lighten things up. Honestly, we wouldn’t have been disappointed if we’d all just ordered this.

Our other main was a perfectly cooked piece of line-caught blue eye trevalla resting on sauteed greens and served with a lemon sauce that has just a hint of aniseed from the tarragon. Crisp-tender asparagus is on the side.

Speaking of sides, we ordered a couple extra and had no regrets, thrice-cooked potatoes ($15) were a carb and garlic lover’s dream and the blistered green beans ($16) came with an XO sauce that had just enough kick to add some interest without scaring anyone.

Seafood isn’t the only star at the revamped Mures Upper Deck restaurant – the interior styling is also first rate. Picture: Mures Tasmania

Mures has long been a Hobart institution, first opening its doors in Battery Point in 1973. A struggle to source quality seafood sent founder George to sea and there’s now a fleet of Mures fishing boats as well as the three restaurants and a bar on Victoria Dock.

The Upper Deck was revamped and reopened in October last year and there’s now a quiet sophistication to the fit-out. The evening we visited, there was a mix of couples and larger groups celebrating a special occasion, as well as a group in one of the private dining rooms. Staff were friendly, calm and efficient throughout our meal, despite the restaurant being fully booked.

Mures Upper Deck's Basque cheesecake with Tasmanian berries. Picture: Mures Tasmania

Mures Upper Deck's Tasmanian Lavender Cake Almond Sponge. Picture: Mures Tasmania

We finished with two desserts – a lavender scented (and hued) ice cream atop an almond sponge, with shards of lavender meringue was a colourful option. A bright berry coulis added colour to a rich burnt Basque cheesecake that seemed to disappear before I had a chance to take a second bite.

If it’s been a while since you’ve visited Mures Upper Deck, it’s worth making a booking and experiencing genuine Tasmanian seafood and service.

MURES UPPER DECK

Victoria Dock, Davey St, Hobart

Opening hours: 7 days, 11am – 9pm

On the menu

Taste of Tasmania Share Table ($98 per person) menu, featuring scallops with crushed peas, yellowtail kingfish crudo, gravlax with pickles, seafood pasta, blue eye trevalla, slow-cooked cheesecake.