First look at new fine diner reveals delight in every bite
Meals at this new Marion Bay eatery are a combo of Tasmanian produce, French culinary techniques and Scottish heritage. And yes it’s fancy, but with a relaxed vibe, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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There are a couple of things you should know about Oirthir, the recently opened Scottish/French/Tasmanian fine diner in a paddock perched above Marion Bay. One, it’s pronounced oor-heet and is an old Scottish word meaning “coast”, which is appropriate as it enjoys stunning views north towards Maria Island. Two, you may experience some cutlery anxiety – but don’t worry, they’re happy to bring you more if you use the wrong utensil during the nine-course lunch experience. And three, there will be haggis and it will be surprisingly delicious. That is all.
Set aside an afternoon and make a reservation at Oirthir, for a meal that combines Tasmanian produce with French culinary techniques and Scottish heritage. It’s fine dining, but with a relaxed vibe that encourages you to wear your Blunnies, so you can go
for a wander in the wild vegetable garden before dessert.
The approach to the restaurant, set low in a slope, is via a gravel path and a heavy door that leads you into a dark entryway, furnished with a chaise longue upholstered in turquoise Harris tweed – the beautiful woollen cloth woven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides. This is a nod to the Scottish roots of chef/owners and life partners Bob Piechniczek and Jillian McInnes. The dried kelp hanging above it is pure Tasmania.
The set lunch menu ($175 per person) begins with a wedge of traditional soda bread served with a seaweed butter and radishes both fresh and pickled. Plump Boomer Bay oysters are served with a samphire vinaigrette and taste like a fresh summer ocean swim. This simple starter – a failte (welcome) plate – encompasses the Tasmanian, French and Scottish influences that abound throughout the meal, including the wine list, which is arranged by coastlines. The last of summer’s tomatoes are on show in a simple dish that pairs red and yellow varieties with a scoop of tangy Tongola goat’s cheese and a pour of tomato consomme that’s crystal clear but full of flavour. A sprinkle of tarragon from the garden provides the merest hint of aniseed and each mouthful is a delight.
All the cutlery for the meal can be found in the drawers at each seat and our poor choices are now coming home to roost. The beurre blanc sauce accompanying the Freycinet mussels is wonderfully drinkable and a large spoon is definitely required. Bob tells us that there was an abundance of zucchini in the garden when they arrived (welcome to Tasmania in December – we know the feeling!) so they made kimchi, which pairs perfectly with the mussels and sauce.
The culmination of the savoury dishes is a Bangor lamb saddle, cooked sous vide before being finished in the pan in the wood-fired oven that crackles throughout the day. The offal from the lamb is combined with spices and oats to make the haggis, that’s been pressed, cut, crumbed and deep-fried. This is my first haggis experience (though I’ve eaten lamb offal on the streets of Istanbul) and I figure having it prepared by a chef with Michelin-star experience is not a bad way to do it. The flavour is earthy without being overpowering and I’d happily eat this any day of the week.
Dessert is a cranachan, a classic Scottish dish that Jillian has refined and turned into a sophisticated dish of honey and whisky ice cream with raspberries and an oat and barley tuile. It’s delicate and the combination of textures is delightful.
A long lunch is not for everyone, so I can thoroughly recommend Oirthir’s Friday and Saturday night supper offering. At $75 for three courses, it’s great value and the evening we visited the last of the sun’s rays was illuminating the coast as we enjoyed a bowl of vichyssoise – the classic French potato and leek soup. Our main was a perfectly cooked Black Angus porterhouse from Premaydena that Bob was slicing in the open kitchen as we arrived and came with a polenta pont neuf and greens. Bob described it as “three things on a plate” as he served it, but it was three very, very good things and made for a perfect Friday night meal. The other main was mackerel served with ratatouille. Jillian’s background as a pastry chef means that dessert is worth waiting for and this evening it was an elegant nectarine and frangipane tart, served with a puddle of creme anglaise as the view disappeared into the darkness.
Oirthir is a welcome addition to Hobart’s food scene with its relaxed approach to fine dining and a supper that should be the start to everyone’s weekend. Tapadh leat (thank you), Bob and Jillian, and welcome to our island.
OIRTHIR
357 Marion Bay Rd, Bream Creek
Opening hours: Saturday-Monday, lunch. Friday-Saturday, supper
@oirthir
ON THE MENU
Woodfired seaweed soda bread, blue lip mussels with zucchini kimchi, mackerel with pink gooseberry chutney, Bangor lamb with haggis and turnip, cranachan
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