It’s all about the pizza at reborn Hobart eatery
I’m happy to report that this newly refurbished Sandy Bay restaurant and bar has excellent pizza, a good selection of beers and their breakfasts aren’t too shabby either, says ALIX DAVIS
Food and Wine
Don't miss out on the headlines from Food and Wine. Followed categories will be added to My News.
Back in the dark ages before we moved to Hobart, Tuesday night was pizza night. We’d head to our local, pull up a seat and enjoy some people-watching with a side of piping hot pizza and a draft beer. We hadn’t really found a substitute in Hobart. Until now. I’m happy to report that the newly refurbished Metz has excellent pizza, a good selection of draft and bottled beers and plenty of opportunities for people-watching from the balcony that overlooks Sandy Bay Rd. And their breakfasts aren’t too shabby either!
A recent sunny Friday morning was the perfect time to enjoy breakfast on the terrace and I steered my husband away from his usual eggs on toast and towards the white bean scramble ($22). This vegan dish transforms cannellini beans into a hearty breakfast dish that’s studded with chunks of chargrilled zucchini and sprinkled with dukkah. It comes on a sturdy slice of sourdough and almond bacon that – confession time – we swapped out for a generous portion of crispy bacon ($6). And, while smashed avo on toast with Persian feta ($22) sounded great, I opted for the chilli scramble ($20), a dish that’s on friendly terms with Room for a Pony’s chilli omelette. I’m not a fan of wet eggs and this dish, with a side of thinly sliced chorizo, came exactly as ordered, with the eggs well cooked. We stuck with coffee and tea ($4.50) but
I can imagine cocktails like the breakfast margarita ($20) with tequila, cointreau and marmalade being popular on weekends.
The association with Room for a Pony is no accident as the owners of The Metz are already well known in Hobart hospitality. Drew Port owns Room for a Pony in North Hobart, while Alex Haros owns Mr Burger, with one outlet in the city and another in Rosny. Haros actually had his 21st birthday party at the venue in its previous life and considered buying it in 2010. That didn’t happen, but this time around, he teamed up with Port (they’ve been mates since they were five years old) to create an establishment that’s bringing life to the Sandy Bay strip seven days a week.
The light, bright menu with Italian, Greek and Mediterranean influences is perfect for a summer launch and when we returned for dinner, there was plenty I wanted to try. We’d booked a table inside, but the weather was so good that we sat in lounge chairs on the veranda before moving to an outside table with comfy banquette seating. Open air dining was the go when we visited, but there are plenty of heaters and clear plastic screens to keep things cosy come cooler weather. The background music had a Greek beachclub vibe to it and guests ranged from groups of girlfriends, to friends enjoying an after-work drink, to a family table and couples sharing a midweek meal. Despite the laid-back vibe, the service is efficient, attentive and friendly, making for a relaxed and enjoyable evening.
There’s plenty to like on the dinner menu – seafood dominates the smaller plates with offerings including tuna tartare ($22), fresh mussels with fennel seeds and garlic ($19) and a tempura prawn roll ($14). We opt for the saganaki ($14) because we are huge fans of dangerously hot cheese that comes with a crispy crust and drizzled with honey. This does not disappoint. The salty cheese pairs nicely with the honey and there’s a charred lemon wedge to add a little acid as well – the salt, fat, acid, heat formula is proven correct again!
Mains include slow-cooked lamb served with potatoes and labneh (yoghurt cheese) ($35), housemade gnocchi with basil pesto and stracciatella ($22) and a vegan curry with warming spices and saffron rice ($24). All of which sounds delicious but we are here for pizza and I cast professionalism aside for a night and order exactly what I want. The pizza menu is relatively short and sweet, sticking mainly to the classics. First impressions are promising – a charred, puffy crust envelopes thin slices of prosciutto ($25) draped over a classic thin base topped with tomato sauce and stretchy mozzarella. My first mouthful confirms it – a crisp base, not too doughy, with a crust that has a satisfying amount of chew. Toppings have been applied judiciously and this is pizza I’ll be coming back for. Heros tells me the secret is in the cooking – using a mesh tray rather than a traditional pizza tray. The lamb pizza with tzatziki ($26) (less traditional but I’ll allow it!) is also good – chunks of tender pulled lamb punctuated with tangy yoghurt dip. And again, the base is outstanding.
So, if you’re looking for me on pizza night – you’ll know where I’ll be.
THE METZ
217 Sandy Bay Rd, Sandy Bay
Opening hours: Seven days, 8am – late.
On the menu
White bean scramble, $22; chilli scramble, $10; coffee, $4.50; pot of tea, $4.50; saganaki, $14; prosciutto pizza, $25; pulled lamb pizza, $26.
Flavours at this Hobart cafe will transport you down the Silk Road
Persian food doesn’t have a high profile in Hobart, but a visit to this hidden gem of an eatery for a casual lunch or dinner is highly recommended, writes Alix Davis
Classy northern restaurant still delivers on every front
Stillwater will be celebrating its 25th anniversary next year and has honed its offering over that time to become one of the state’s best restaurants. In this review, Alix Davis implores the classy restaurant to ‘please keep doing what you do so well!’