One of Tassie’s most-loved eateries still delivers on every front

Stillwater will be celebrating its 25th anniversary next year and has honed its offering over that time to become one of the state’s best restaurants. In this review, Alix Davis implores the classy restaurant to ‘please keep doing what you do so well!’

Stillwater’s head sommelier and co-owner James Welsh. Picture: SUPPLIED

There’s something wonderful about a crisply laundered napkin. Pristine and white at the start of the evening, it whispers a promise of good food, attentive service and fine wine. And at a recent evening at Launceston’s Stillwater that promise was kept, with a meal that delivered on every front.

There was a comfortable hum in the dining room of this old mill building when we visited midweek and the Blundstone-shod staff moved from table to table with practised efficiency. Each table was set with a lamp – handy for reading the menu if one’s eyes are a little tired – and the vibe was one of laid-back luxury.

Stillwater will be celebrating their 25th anniversary in March and have honed their offering over that time to become one of Tasmania’s most-loved restaurants and feature regularly on national best-of lists.

The menu is a la carte and you can choose an entree and main for $95, a main and a dessert for $90 or three courses for $115. There are also snacks and sides available if you’d like a little something extra.

Stillwater’s steamed prawn dumplings, black bean and vinegar sauce, wood ear mushroom and soft herbs. Picture: NESS VANDERBURGH

I begin with steamed tiger prawn dumplings – four fat bundles stuffed with succulent prawn meat and topped with a umami-rich XO sauce. There’s a hint of chilli in the sauce and a little zing from spring onion oil. Each of these mouthfuls (well, two if I’m being polite) is a wonderful combination of flavours and textures. I look up from my dumplings to see with horror that my husband has almost finished his entree of kingfish sashimi and I have to move fast to nab a piece of meltingly tender fish in a bright citrus dressing of white soy and ponzu. Blood orange segments and daikon radish provide a slightly acidic tang and their subtle hues make this a visually beautiful dish.

Stillwater co-owner Bianca Welsh. Picture: Rob Burnett

Stillwater’s wine list – first created by founder Rod Ascui 24 years ago and now curated by head sommelier/co-owner James Welsh – focuses on wines from the Tamar Valley and other Tasmanian regions. The area is predominantly known for its pinot noir and chardonnay, with sauvignon blanc, riesling and pinot gris also on the rise.

Tonight’s sommelier, Bryony, is happy to help with drinks selection – a local Du Cane beer is followed by a glass of riesling and there’s a good selection of alcohol-free mocktails and spritzers.

A selection of the sumptuous dishes available from Stillwater’s latest dinner menu. Picture: Ness Vanderburgh

Stillwater’s slow-cooked Cape Grim short rib, boulangere potato and leaf salad. Picture: Ness Vanderburgh

It’s hard to decide on a main, and my husband goes for the market fish – which is pink ling from Triabunna served on top of a bright, lemony risotto with miso-braised leeks. The flavours are light and fresh and this dish feels substantial without being over-filling. My lamb rump (from nearby Cressy) with truffled lentils is equally delicious and comes with whipped potato and parsnip that’s as light as a cloud. The lamb is pink and perfectly cooked.

We love a support act and the sides here do not disappoint. My old friends, brussels sprouts, have been roasted and smothered in a bacon-onion jam that could be easily eaten by itself, with a spoon. The sprouts are just the right amount of tender and this is a dish I’d come back for. Hasselback potatoes are a carb-lover’s delight with a sauce of brown butter, sage and lemon that gets snagged in the nooks and crannies of the sliced potatoes. To lighten things up a bit, we also ordered the cos lettuce heart with stracciatella – a mild, fresh and stretchy cheese that I wouldn’t think to pair with lettuce but which works brilliantly, especially when topped with a verjuice vinaigrette.

A selection of fine dishes from Stillwater’s latest menu. Picture: Ness Vanderburgh

After a shared dessert of a delicate caramelised honey parfait with a meringue wafer, we head upstairs to our room at Stillwater Seven, the boutique hotel that’s part of the building. The king-size bed is just the right level of cloud-like comfort and the mini-bar (a design marvel in its own right) is stocked with all manner of sweet, savoury and drinkable Tasmanian treats.

After a peaceful night’s sleep and a cup of tea while gazing out at the Tamar, I was ready for a breakfast sortie to local bakery Bread & Butter, only to discover a tote bag with fresh croissants from that very bakery outside our door. Be still my croissant-loving heart! Paired with the neat breakfast tray of yoghurt, muesli, juice and jams in the fridge, it’s a wonderful start to a day of exploring northern Tasmania.

Stillwater – please keep doing what you do so well!

Stillwater Seven in Launceston, Tasmania. Picture: Natalie Mendham

STILLWATER

2 Bridge Rd, Launceston

@stillwatertasmania

Opening hours: Mon-Sat lunch from 10.30am, dinner from 5.30pm

On the menu

Sashimi with white soy and yuzu ponzu, tiger prawn dumplings with wagyu fat XO sauce, Cressy lamb rump with truffled lentils, market fish with miso-braised leek and lemon risotto, honey parfait.