Hobart’s coolest new eatery will help warm the soul this June
The latest dining addition to Hobart’s hip cultural precinct is the ideal place to help you warm up this winter, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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Winter is the time for taking things slow, spending time with friends in front of an open fire, curling up with a good book, or enjoying a meal that’s had some time spent on it. That’s the philosophy behind Slow, the newest addition to In the Hanging Garden’s always excellent line-up. Slow is brought to us by Chef DC and Michelle Newell, who run Anju, just next door. And while Anju serves up Korean snacks designed to be enjoyed with a beer, Slow is all about more substantial meals that keep winter’s chill at bay.
I take a seat under one of the very effective heaters and as I’m dining solo this evening, I am immediately absorbed by the novel I’m currently enjoying. I manage to tear myself away from the crime-ridden streets of London to tuck into a steaming bowlful of mushroom risotto with truffle ($22). Is there a more perfect pairing than these earthy flavours? I certainly can’t think of one. Add a flurry of parmesan and perfectly creamy risotto rice and this is a wonderfully comforting dish I would happily eat on any cold evening.
My next dish is a hearty braised lamb ragu with gnocchi ($26) that combines pillowy parcels of potato gnocchi with a slow-cooked sauce of Wild Clover lamb. My husband has long sworn that he’s not a fan of gnocchi, however I’m confident that one mouthful of these light little dumplings would dispel the memory of leaden pellets of supermarket gnocchi from his mind for good. The gnocchi are made in-house and DC says he loves Tuesdays – gnocchi-making day.
“We wanted this to be a warm and hearty dining experience,” explains DC. “It’s much more like family dining” than Anju’s menu. Not surprisingly, the lamb is one of the most popular dishes and, something to note – it’s the only dish on the menu that’s not gluten-free. “Michelle doesn’t eat gluten,” explains DC, “so the majority of the menu is gluten-free.”
In between mouthfuls, I follow private detective Cormoran Strike as he gathers evidence to solve a blackmail-turned-murder case and pause only to turn my attention to the masterstock beef short rib with roast potatoes ($24). This generous portion of Cape Grim beef is fork-tender and has a subtle crust on it, thanks to a light sear. The roast potatoes are crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside and perfectly salted. This is an upmarket version of steak and chips at a very reasonable price point and I can’t wait to bring my husband here to try it.
As Cormoran and his partner in crime-fighting, Robin, move in on the killer, I smear a crispy haloumi fry ($16) into the yoghurt dipping sauce and enjoy the tang of pomegranate molasses against the mildness of this classic Greek cheese.
If you’re looking for a pre-dinner snack or something to nibble on while you’re enjoying a drink, these fries would definitely be my go-to.
In the Hanging Garden is such a magical space and the addition of Slow is perfectly timed for winter. But as if having two outlets here wasn’t enough, DC and Newell are taking Anju to the upcoming Winter Feast. So if you’ve been thinking about their kimchi toastie (I know I have), you’ll be able to catch it there.
My slow-cooked winter dishes have satiated me (but not my appetite for crime fiction) and DC says that there is a dessert offering on its way as well. I’m sure I could find room for that – before moving slowly back to my seat by the fire and my fast-paced book.
SLOW
In the Hanging Garden
112 Murray St, Hobart
Opening hours: Wed-Thurs, 11am-8pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-12am; Sun 11am-8pm
On the menu
Braised lamb ragu with gnocchi, $26; mushroom risotto with truffle, $22; masterstock beef short ribs with roast potatoes, $24; haloumi fries, $16
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