Glow-up breathes new life into local hotel
It’s been a long time between drinks at the Kingston Hotel for me. A quick visit a while ago hadn’t inspired a return. But that’s all changed following a stylish, slick revamp, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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It’s been a long time between drinks at the Kingston Hotel for me. It’s pretty much my local, but one quick visit a few years ago hadn’t inspired a return visit. That’s all changed following a full glow-up and reimagining of the spaces. There’s a sports-focused bar with a fab bar menu, pool table, plenty of TVs all playing different games, matches and events and a wood fire to keep things cosy. But it’s Darcy’s, the revamped dining room that I’m really interested in and it does not disappoint.
The renovation is slick and stylish yet still approachable. There are a couple of cosy, private areas within the dining room – perfect for groups of eight or more and a function space out the back can seat up to 140 people or accommodate 200 for a cocktail event. And, given the quality of the food we ate last weekend, I’d be lining up for a canape or three at any event held here.
Our group enjoys a drink before dinner – there are plenty of beers on tap, including a few local craft offerings (Deep South Brewing’s Black Rice dark beer was a favourite on the night) and plenty of wines by the glass. Comfy banquette seating lines the walls and though the dining room is busy when we arrive, it’s not so noisy you have to shout. There are family groups with kids as well as couples and a larger table of mates in the private area, and it’s an eat-early type of place, with just about everyone gone by the time we finish at 9.30pm.
We start with a selection of small plates to share. Campfire brie ($17) is an oozingly melted double brie wrapped in prosciutto and crowned with a generous scoop of quince paste, that’s liquefied from the residual heat – making it easy to cut and smear a wedge onto a piece of sourdough toast. There’s a hint of garlic and the mellow flavours make a favourite at the table. Until one of our group cracks into a spring roll ($14 for 3) and immediately declares it “sensational!”. Stuffed with mushrooms and wrapped in a shatteringly crisp pastry, these make a great bar snack or starter and are all thriller, no filler.
Bite-size lamb croquettes ($16 for 5) are another winner – tender shredded lamb in crispy panko crumbs and a vibrant herby sauce. My favourite is the smoked eggplant ($16). I wasn’t sure what to expect but I reckon it’s a delicious take on a Spanish tapas eggplant dish that’s served throughout Andalusia. The eggplant has been lightly battered and fried (nothing oily here) then served with a miso caramel and dollops of labneh (yoghurt cheese). I may have kept this plate closer to my end of the table than was strictly fair.
Service is friendly and efficient, with extra plates, toast and serving implements arriving promptly upon request.
Meals are generously portioned and excellent value – there’s a “Feed Me” option on offer for $35 per person and shares mains like a whole roast chicken or a pork shoulder with sides from $55. I’ll be trying both of those in the near future, but tonight we’re going for individual plates. My braised beef cheeks ($31) are fall-apart tender and dusted with hazelnut dukkah and come with a fat wedge of fluffy focaccia – great for mopping up the sauce. I love this cut of meat and the execution is spot-on.
Housemade gnocchi with shredded lamb ($29) are plump pillows of potatoey perfection and have been lightly pan-fried with a burnt butter sauce.
A classic lamb roast ($26) is the meal of choice for two of our party and both comment on not only the tenderness of the lamb, but also the quality of the vegetables – no hours spent languishing in a bain-marie for these crispy potatoes, roast pumpkin and broccolini!
Some members of our party claim they’re too full for dessert but I tell them it’s part of the job, so without too much persuasion they grab a spoon and dig into a chocolate mousse ($12), sticky date pudding ($12) and a classic apple and rhubarb crumble ($12). They are all excellent and I especially like the slightly burnt caramel sauce on the sticky date, which gives it a sophisticated edge.
It’s great to see pub food and surroundings of this standard and I’m already looking forward to my return visit.
DARCY’S BAR & EATERY at KINGSTON HOTEL
14 Channel Hwy, Kingston
Opening hours: Sun – Tues, 10am-9.30pm, Wed-Sat, 10am- 10.30pm
ON THE MENU
Campfire brie, $17; smoked eggplant, $16; lamb croquettes, $16; braised beef cheeks, $31; gnocchi with lamb, $29; classic lamb roast, $26; apple and fennel salad, $9; artichoke focaccia, $9; chocolate mousse, $12; sticky date pudding, $12
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