The Leogate shiraz treasure grown from Len Evans’ grand Hunter Valley vision

One of the hero wines this week is from the vineyard that the Australian wine legend planted in the Hunter Valley in 1969.

So said Len Evans: “You have only so many bottles in your life, never drink a bad one.”

Before James Halliday became a household name, there was Len Evans.

Through the 1960s, 70s and 80s, no one promoted Australian wine to the world with such fervour as this Welsh-born human dynamo.

He was many things: winemaker, judge, retailer, entrepreneur, taster, teacher, drinker. And he was described in many ways: gregarious, loud, frenetic, idealistic, visionary, single-minded, provocative, magnetic.

Evans was an early mentor to Halliday, then a corporate lawyer, and famously introduced him to a 1962 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache over one of their regular Monday lunches in Sydney in the late 1960s – an experience Halliday describes as “the beginning of the end”.

Among Evans’ many adventures was his establishment of Rothbury Estate in 1968, then regarded as the grandest wine venture ever undertaken in the Hunter Valley.

As part of this project, Evans planted the Brokenback vineyard on land purchased from Murray Tyrrell – a vineyard of mainly shiraz, semillon and chardonnay set against the spectacular Brokenback Range.

So, as The Australian Wine Club prepares for the release of the annual Halliday dozen this month, it’s fitting that one of the hero wines we feature this week is from the very vineyard Evans planted in 1969: an irresistible 2014 Leogate Estate Western Slopes shiraz (RRP $115).

Let’s get to the wines, with a memorable piece of advice from the Len Evans playbook: “You have only so many bottles in your life, never drink a bad one.”

Leogate Western Slopes Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014

From west-facing vines on the legendary Brokenback vineyard comes this beautifully balanced piece of Hunter treasure. Leogate, owned by former Tamworth graziers Bill and Vicki Widin, has just celebrated receiving five red stars in James Halliday’s latest Wine Companion for the 10th straight year. Winemaker Mark Woods remembers the 2014 vintage as one of the best of his 12 vintages at Leogate. The near-perfect growing season shines through in the opulence of the fruit flavours clearly on show seven years later. Plums and blueberries float across a stage of sweet cedar, spice and pepper. Hints of polished leather and dried herbs lie in the background, adding layers of complexity to a wine that has plenty of years left on the clock. Medium-bodied in classic Hunter style but full of intensity. Only 400 dozen made. The 2014 scored 95 Halliday points. A rare opportunity to purchase this wine at a mixed dozen price. 14.5% alc RRP $115

Len Evans (in 1977) knew the appeal of a great wine.

Punch Lance’s Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2016

This Yarra stunner is seriously boutique – only 2750 bottles made. The Lance family was behind the Yarra’s Diamond Valley wine label and kept the family’s St Andrews vineyard after selling the brand. The vines go back to 1976 and deliver a depth of flavour that gets pinot pulses racing. Rich black cherries and dark plums lead on to savoury, earthy notes. This is a pinot with great structure and a slightly heavier palate weight than some – right up my alley. Made without added yeast, fining or filtration. Vegan friendly. 94 Halliday points. 13.5% alc RRP $50

Glenlofty Estate Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Formerly blended into premium wines for top wineries like Penfolds and Seppelt, this estate cabernet is now singing solo under the direction of winemaker Andrew Koerner (of Blue Pyrenees fame). Blackcurrants, chocolate and licorice meld together, with black treacle, menthol and tobacco notes. Medium-bodied. Regional Winner of the James Halliday Cabernet Challenge 2019 and Gold medals from Melbourne to London and back. 13.5% alc.
RRP $34

Grove Estate Hilltops Shiraz 2018

 

Elegant cool-climate shiraz from a low-yielding vineyard in the Hilltops region of NSW near Young. Respected names drive Grove Estate, namely viticulturist Brian Mullany and winemakers Tim Kirk (Clonakilla) and Bryan Martin (Ravensworth). You’ll find blue and red fruits to the fore, mingling with cedar and clove characters. Team Halliday handed out 94 points: “Fine tannins, impeccable balance and a satisfying finish complete a quality picture.” Also scored the Halliday red star denoting special value for money. 14% alc RRP $30

SPECIAL DOZEN 3 bottles of each wine $29.99 a bottle

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