Pinot noir to fall in love with: Yarra’s Soumah, Martinborough’s Palliser, Tassie’s Holm Oak and the Elusive Bogie Panther

If you’ve watched the classic wine movie Sideways, you’ll understand pinot noir’s irresistible charm. Here’s four perfumed pinots waiting to lure you into the chase.

Here are four lovely pinots from different “tucked away corners”, waiting to lure you into the chase.

If you’ve watched the classic wine movie Sideways, you’ll understand why some of us are utterly entranced by pinot noir.

Paul Giamatti’s lead character, Miles, pays homage to the virtues of pinot while trying to spark a romantic union with fellow wine lover Maya.

“It’s a hard grape to grow, as you know – it’s thin-skinned, temperamental,’’ he says.

“It’s not a survivor like cabernet that can grow anywhere and thrive even when neglected. Pinot needs constant care and attention. And in fact it can only grow in these really specific, little, tucked away corners of the world. And only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really.

“Only somebody who really takes the time to understand pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression. Then, its flavours, they’re just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.”

With lines like those, it’s no surprise Giamatti got the girl but the thrill of the pinot chase never ends for those who fall for its charms.

Winemaker Alex Trescowthick has been on the hunt for years, calling the first pinot bottled from his family’s small vineyard in Victoria’s Strathbogie Ranges, The Elusive Bogie Panther. “Elusive” because the vines were planted more than 20 years ago. The wait has been worth it.

“Pinot is tricky to make but I’d have to say it’s my favourite grape,’’ says Alex, whose day job is making wine for RedHeads in the Barossa.

Talk to Yarra Valley’s Soumah winemaker, Scott McCarthy, and you also hear of that undefinable something that drives our pinot obsession.

“Drinking a good pinot can be an ethereal experience – a bit like umami; it takes you to another level,’’ he says. “You can’t quite put your finger on it, but it’s this beautiful balance between fruit and earthiness.”

Scott McCarthy, chief winemaker of Soumah Wines in the Yarra Valley.

Here are four lovely pinots from different “tucked away corners”, waiting to lure you into the chase.

Soumah Single Vineyard Yarra Valley Upper Ngumby Pinot Noir 2018

It’s all here: wild cherries, fragrant herbs and mouth-watering savoury flavours sing in harmony. There’s a depth of flavour that speaks of a special vineyard in one of Australia’s leading pinot regions. The Upper Ngumby vineyard slopes gently east, protecting its finicky grapes from the afternoon heat while offering warm morning sun. Gold medals, including at the Melbourne International Wine Show, underline the quality. Brilliant value (even more so in this mixed dozen). 13% alc. RRP $40 a bottle. CLUB SPECIAL $34 in any dozen.

 

The Elusive Bogie Panther Strathbogie Ranges Pinot Noir 2019

Finally captured by Alex Trescowthick and his family, revealing a tapestry of dark cherries woven with forest floor nuances and earthy spice. Silky mouthfeel, with seasoned French oak tucked in the background. Hand-picked, basket-pressed, unfiltered, packed with homemade goodness. Only 200 dozen made. Should live on in captivity for years. 13.5% alc. RRP $32 a bottle. CLUB SPECIAL $27.20 in any dozen.

Palliser Estate The Luminary Martinborough Pinot Noir 2020

To me, New Zealand’s Martinborough is one of the world’s special pinot places. Palliser Estate’s The Luminary leads with a rush of red and black cherries and plums, finishing with clove, nutmeg and oak-derived vanilla notes. A fruit-packed introduction to the treasures of Martinborough from one of its best producers. Best to let it breathe for a good hour. 14% alc. RRP $30 a bottle. CLUB SPECIAL $25.50 in any dozen.

Holm Oak The Protege Tasmania Pinot Noir 2020

The Protege looks super light but don’t be put off. The flavours scream “pinot”. One of Tasmania’s most acclaimed wineries, Holm Oak sources fruit from its premium single-vineyard sites in the Tamar Valley. Lifted strawberry and red cherry flavours mingle with spice; bright acidity. Good sub-$30 Tassie pinot is almost as rare as sightings of the Tasmanian tiger. Made for a sunny afternoon with salmon salad.
12.8% alc RRP $30 a bottle. CLUB SPECIAL $25.50 in any dozen.

SPECIAL PINOT DOZEN
(3 bottles of each wine above) $25.99 a bottle

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