James Halliday’s wonders of the West: Evans & Tate, Howard Park, Hay Shed Hill and Alkoomi

We’re venturing West to hand-pick four wines, including a classic Margaret River chardonnay and another very special white that would be right at home in Bordeaux.

Meet the best of the West, ahead of the Halliday annual dozen.

As James Halliday says, Margaret River is one of the most remote, beautiful wine regions on the planet, packed with five-star wineries.

In the countdown to The Australian Wine Club’s Halliday annual dozen, to be released next month, we’re venturing west to hand-pick four wines, loaded with flavour and class, for a one-off mixed dozen special.

Our “Wonders of the West” offer brings together four wineries – all awarded five red stars by our club president – that showcase the styles that have brought Western Australia’s winemakers international acclaim.

Premium cabernet and chardonnay are the king and queen of Margaret River, but semillon/sauvignon blanc blends (SSBs) have always been part of the scene and cool-climate shiraz from Great Southern is fast winning tribes of new friends.

A valley of vines in the Margaret River region.

Here are four wines, offering superb value, that will make you dream of road-tripping south of Perth, along that stunning stretch of coastline to a paradise of beaches, valleys and world-class vineyards. Forget those lockdown lows.

Evans & Tate Redbrook Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2017

From one of the oldest WA wine brands comes a Goldilocks chardonnay: that appealing balance between fruit purity and oak subtlety. Four years into its life, there’s plenty of white peach, pear and citrus flavours on display, combining with toasted cashews and a comforting creaminess. Fermented wild, 11 months in French oak. “Delicious as it is impressive,’’ was Team Halliday’s verdict, delivering a 95-point verdict. This is sublime, high-quality Margaret River chardonnay. 13 per cent alcohol. RRP $40.

Hay Shed Hill Block 1 Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2018

If you’re a chardonnay fan who loves textured wines with a touch of oak, I implore you: spice up your wine-drinking life with this white Bordeaux-style blend. Margaret River is renowned for its fresh, zippy, fun-in-the-sun SSB blends but this is something far more serious. James Halliday awarded it 96 points, writing: “It’s rare to find such a combination of finesse, elegance, intensity and length. A barrel ferment element is of minor importance, but does contribute to this special wine.”

Hay Shed Hill is one of a prestigious group of iconic wineries that established Margaret River’s reputation. Block 1 was planted in 1973 and boasts some of the oldest semillon and sauvignon blanc vines in WA. “It’s a pretty weird block,” says winemaker Michael “Kegs” Kerrigan, who acquired Hay Shed Hill in 2006 after making wine at Howard Park. “It’s a steep, gravelly slope; the vines have never been irrigated in 50 years, very low yields – it’s basically a non-commercial block – but it’s the wine I have the most affection for.”

The grape juice from both varieties are co-fermented in seasoned French barrels and, as Michael says, “Whatever comes out, comes out.” In the spirit of white Bordeaux blends, sauvignon brings the trademark grassy aromas that leap from your glass, while the semillon lays on rich lemon flavours leading to creamy honeyed notes. The flavours linger. What a wine! 11.5 per cent alc. RRP $30.

Howard Park Miamup Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

This is classic Margaret River cabernet from one of the region’s pioneering wine families. Helmed by Jeff and Amy Burch, Howard Park has produced some of Australia’s most collected wines since beginning operations in 1986. Margaret River is often likened to Bordeaux for its maritime climate, with its cabernets celebrated for their combination of juiciness, poise and elegance. James Halliday writes of the Miamup, “Calm and persuasive, the cassis/blackcurrant fruit enhanced by 18 months in French barriques and (relatively) soft tannins.” 93 points. Great value. 14 per cent alc. RRP $28.

 

Alkoomi White Label Frankland River Shiraz 2018

Another red five-star Halliday winery, located down the road from Margaret River in the Frankland River subregion of Great Southern. Established in 1971, Alkoomi has grown from a single hectare to become one of WA’s largest family-owned and operated wineries. “Very concentrated black fruits verge on full-bodied, so intense are the flavours,’’ Halliday writes. “A bargain for the cellar hunters.” 93 points. 14.5 per cent alcohol. RRP $21.

SPECIAL DOZEN three bottles of each $22.99 a bottle

Order online or telephone [phone] Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals available while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaite’s Wine People.