How Margaret River chardonnay pioneers Vasse Felix, Moss Wood and Leeuwin Estate changed our wine life
From fresh fruit-driven styles to rich complex wines that take you to heaven, we have them all.
Thoughtful chardonnay fans salute the rise of the West – Margaret River pioneers Vasse Felix, Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Sandalford and Leeuwin ushered in a new era of winemaking, creating beautifully balanced chardonnays, rich in fruit but not drowning in oak.
Today, West Australian wineries are celebrated around the globe — one of the world’s leading wine critics Jancis Robinson recently rated Margaret River chardonnays more highly than white Burgundies in a blind tasting.
The pioneers’ stunning success in the 1970s and 1980s prompted winemakers across Australia to re-evaluate their chardonnay style and strive for a greater balance between fruit, acid and oak.
The result is that we are now able to choose from a superb array of Australian chardonnays any day of the week: young, fresh, fruit-driven wines; taut, minerally Chablis styles; richer, complex chardonnays that take you to heaven. Our only challenge is understanding the styles that most appeal to our own palates.
The Australian Wine Club today salutes modern Australian chardonnay across the spectrum. Our selections come from different regions but all have achieved another important balancing act – that between quality and value.
Peos Estate Single Vineyard Four Kings Manjimup Chardonnay 2020
About 120km inland from Margaret River lies Manjimup, home to Peos Estate and brothers Vic, John, Kon and Chris, who embarked on their wine odyssey in tribute to their late grandfather, a respected wine producer in the family’s native Macedonia many decades ago. Already a five-star- rated winery with a string of 90+ scores under its belt, Peos’s Four Kings Chardonnay delivers for those who enjoy a slightly richer style with toasty oak overtones. It’s all here: lemon zest, stone fruit and grapefruit flavours mingling with almond notes. Matured for nine months in 100 per cent French oak. A bargain.
Yering Station Elevations Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2018
Yering Station is home to Victoria’s first vineyard, planted in 1838, and is renowned for producing some of the Yarra’s best chardonnay. (Its iconic Reserve Chardonnay sells for around $130 a pop.) You won’t need to invest as heavily for the Elevations but you’ll still find that classic Yarra Valley mineral backbone, surrounded by bright citrus flavours. This is refreshing, cool-climate chardonnay made for a sunny Sunday lunch with pan-fried fresh whiting, chips and a tomato and lemon salad. $30 a btl in any dozen
Heirloom Vineyards Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2018
From the highly regarded Elena Brooks comes an elegant Adelaide Hills chardonnay in the style of a Chablis. Poised and lean, with a crisp, mineral finish. White peach and nectarine flavours wash across the palate, along with subtle cashew nut and toasty notes. Elena and husband Zar Brooks played key roles in Dandelion Vineyards and Zonte’s Footstep before establishing Heirloom in 2004 and building a reputation for high-quality wines from prized vineyards. $25.50 a btl in any dozen
Thompson Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2019
With Vasse Felix as its next door-neighbour, there’s no doubting the quality of the Thompson Estate vineyard at Wilyabrup in Margaret River. Studies show Wilyabrup has the ideal number of sun exposure days per year for optimal ripening and, being surrounded by sea on three sides, enjoys maritime breezes to keep the fruit cool, producing an intensity of flavours some liken to the great years of Bordeaux. Jane and Peter Thompson (a cardiologist mentored by Vasse Felix pioneer Dr Tom Cullity) planted in 1997 their first chardonnay, which often left wine judges like James Halliday waxing lyrical. The 2019 continues the tradition of ultra quality, boasting what is described as a rich, vibrant palate with a soft creamy texture and exquisite white stone fruit flavours. Scored 95 points from West Australian wine specialist Ray Jordan. $42.50 a btl in any dozen
Three bottles of each wine, including Thompson Estate, for $22.99 a btl
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm AEST.
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