Dare to be different with Coriole’s McLaren Vale sangiovese, chenin blanc and shiraz mataro

In the world of wine, discovery is half the fun – which is why we salute McLaren Vale’s Coriole and the curious soul who took the road less travelled.

Coriole’s McLaren Vale chenin blanc, sangiovese and shiraz mataro are ripe for discovery.

Do you dare to try different things in your life – or just stick to what you know?

In the world of wine, discovery is half the fun – which is why our club this week salutes Coriole and the curious soul who took the road less travelled.

It would have been far easier for Mark Lloyd to just stick to making Shiraz and Grenache at his five-star McLaren Vale winery back in the 1980s; probably would have even been more profitable.

Mark Lloyd. Picture: Stephen Laffer

But if he had, he wouldn’t now be regarded as the father of alternative varieties in Australia – and we wouldn’t be able to spice up our wine lives by savouring Coriole’s Sangiovese, made from the vines Mark planted as an experiment in 1985.

“I think he was fed up with the lack of diversity in Australian wine,’’ says Mark’s son, Peter, who took over managing Coriole after his father retired last year. “You could really only get French varietals back then and he thought that was nuts.”

Those Sangiovese vines are now the oldest in Australia – and Coriole has gone on to push the boundaries with dozens of other European varietals, as well as making some of the country’s best old-vine Shiraz (drawing from a vineyard planted in 1919) and superb Grenache.

Sangiovese hails from Tuscany, of course, and delivers medium-bodied wines that, at their best, feature lovely red cherry and red currant characters as well as savoury herbaceous notes.

The mouth-watering acidity of a good Sangiovese makes it the perfect companion for rich tomato-based pasta dishes and autumn casseroles, like osso buco. In fact, the right food combination elevates the joy of Sangiovese to a higher plane.

Coriole’s Sangiovese success has been hard won. As the Lloyds will tell you, growing Sangiovese isn’t exactly a walk in the park. “The vines are quite vigorous and the berries thin-skinned,’’ Peter says. “They grow close together, which makes them prone to disease. They don’t like it very hot and they don’t like it very cold either. We’ve had a 35-year history and we’ve certainly needed it.’’

Coriole, established by Mark’s parents, Hugh and Molly, in 1967, is also well known for pioneering the white Italian grape varietal Fiano, produces a crisp chenin blanc (see below) and, more recently, started to play with the Languedoc white variety picpoul.

“For us, it’s just a constant pursuit of different flavours and textures and seeing what works,” says Peter, whose brother, Duncan, is now chief winemaker.

“Last night we opened 14 bottles at dinner between the four of us – but we probably only had a full glass each. We have a genuine interest in the global world of wine.”

So take a leaf out of the Coriole playbook: next time you’re wondering what to try, step outside your own comfort zone and try something different. It’s only wine!

Coriole McLaren Vale Chenin Blanc 2019

A native of France’s Loire Valley, chenin blanc is known for its tongue-tingling acidity and flavours of crisp apples and pears. Coriole’s 2019 Chenin sings with tart green apples and a zingy freshness that draws you back. On a warm Saturday afternoon, that can be dangerous! Salt-and-pepper squid seems like a good idea. CLUB SPECIAL: $15.30 in any dozen.

Coriole McLaren Vale Sangiovese 2019

Classic red cherry and rosehip aromas lift from the glass. You’ll meet delicate flavours of cherries, strawberries and raspberries on the palate, leading to savoury notes of forest floor mushrooms and sage. Food adds to the full Sangiovese experience. Hunt down David Herbert’s osso bucco recipe and invite over your lucky neighbours. Or just grab a pizza and get cracking. CLUB SPECIAL: $23.80 in any dozen.

Coriole Balderstone McLaren Vale Shiraz Mataro 2017

Sleek in the glass, the Balderstone blend salutes the original owners of the Coriole property (circa 1860s). Rich aromas of plums and blueberries give way to a flood of soft red, blue fruits and black pepper on the palate combining with the Mataro-driven characters of wild game, leather, tobacco and Chinese five spice. Supported by supple tannins. Lamb roast with rosemary, please. CLUB SPECIAL: $17.49 in any dozen

 

CLUB DOZEN 12-bottle mix of the three wines for $18.99/bottle

John Lehmann is the commercial director and managing editor of The Australian.