RedHeads’ Fiano, Chardonnay, GSM and Shiraz a hot match for The Australian wine club

Barossa winery RedHeads is featured in The Australian wine club’s new weekly column, showcasing a sublime Fiano, a cheeky Chardonnay, a plush GSM and a rock star Shiraz.

Four RedHeads to try: Rusty Roof Langhorne Creek Fiano, 2019, Harmonie Rox Coonawarra Chardonnay, 2020, Princess of Thieves Barossa Valley GSM, 2019 and 1888 Barossa Valley Shiraz, 2019.

“What are you doing, Lehmann, trying to turn The Australian into a bottle shop?”

It was 1998 and I had just started at The Australian in Sydney, fulfilling my goal set as a student 10 years earlier to become a good enough journalist to work at the nation’s greatest newspaper.

Campbell Reid was the editor, peering up from his morning news conference to see me across the newsroom, wheeling a trolley stacked high with cartons of Elderton Shiraz.

Drinking and journalism went hand in hand in those days — every decent newspaper in the world had a pub within a block of its newsroom, where journos congregated after their shift to boast about scoops, lament the stories that got away and hatch schemes to land the next splash.

I was no different than any other full-throttled reporter — apart from the fact I held a small share in Tanunda Cellars, a bottle shop run by my uncle in the heart of the Barossa Valley.

On arrival in Sydney, it hadn’t taken me long to work out that senior journos at The Australian had money to spend on good booze, which I was more than happy to truck in for cash-only sales.

Looking back, as I remember the editor’s retort, I wish I had had enough chutzpah to respond with the line that The Australian already was a bloody good bottle shop: its wine club had been in full swing for years.

Today The Australian wine club, helmed by James Halliday, serves the interests of more than 48,000 enthusiasts across the country, sourcing and selling terrific wines at very good prices.

Wine and journalism are still two of my passions and each week, with this column, I will update you with the stories and wines flowing from our club. Like hunting down a scoop, for me, discovering a wine that really knocks your socks off is one of life’s great thrills.

RedHeads on the rise

RedHeads Wines is the brainchild of global wine entrepreneur Tony Laithwaite, whose instructions to his winemaking team are simple: tiny batches, hands-on, interesting blends, big flavours.

Born in McLaren Vale almost 20 years ago, RedHeads now crafts its creations under the guise of chief winemaker Alex Trescowthick (ex-Nepenthe) from a custom-built, eco-friendly winery near Angaston in the Barossa.

The mission is to hunt down “premium parcels of fruit that were destined to be blended into some big name, nondescript wine and give it the attention it deserves”.

Expect generous, value-packed wines full of personality. Here are four worth a try.

RedHeads Rusty Roof Langhorne Creek Fiano, 2019

This Italian grape varietal is making a bigger impression with Australian wine lovers who enjoy slightly heavier white wine styles featuring mouth-watering acidity and grippy textures. The Rusty Roof Fiano exhibits citrus and honeydew characters on the nose, with pear, nashi fruit and toasted nuts rounding out the palate. Would make friends with an autumn salad of pears, walnuts and blue cheese. Matured for three months in barrel. Single-vineyard fruit. Only 100 dozen made. In any dozen, $23.99 a bottle.

RedHeads Harmonie Rox Coonawarra Chardonnay, 2020

A Coonawarra Chardonnay? RedHeads thinks about it this way: the Coonawarra’s cool climate is similar to Yarra Valley and on a similar latitude. Yarra Valley is renowned for producing world-class Chardonnay, but the Coonawarra provides a limestone bed like Burgundy. These vines were planted under the guidance of the late Wayne Stehbens, winemaker for 40 years at award-winning Katnook. Harmonie Rox makes a bright entrance with refreshing lemon, lime and vanilla flavours with a lingering finish. Fermented in 50 per cent new French oak, 50 per cent stainless steel tank and lees stirred. In any dozen $21.25 a bottle.

RedHeads Princess of Thieves Barossa Valley GSM, 2019

GSMs are all the rage and it’s the perfect time of year to play the field. This Princess of Thieves is a blend of 72 per cent Grenache,
20 per cent Shiraz and 8 per cent Mataro. Enjoy lifted red fruit aromas of sweet cherry and plum combined with subtle savoury notes on the palate. Aged for 10 months in new and used French and American oak. Perfect for a night in with a hearty slow-cooked pork casserole. In any dozen, $29.75 a bottle.

RedHeads 1888 Barossa Valley Shiraz, 2019

1888 was the first red made from RedHeads’ own vineyard in the Barossa. The site, and its oldest building, dates back to 1888 when it was established by Heinrich Hermann. The eye-catching label is made up of the names of 600 people who purchased the 1888’s first vintage before its release.

From the low-yielding 2019 vintage, the 1888 shows off big aromas of ripe blackberry, plum and raspberry, chocolate and spice. Black fruits pour through on the palate, with hints of smoky liquorice and tobacco a signpost to the flavours coming your way as this young pup matures over the next 10 years. In any dozen, $42.50 a bottle.

Check out the RedHeads range

John Lehmann is The Australian’s Commercial Director and Managing Editor. Tony Laithwaite’s company Laithwaite’s Wine People manages The Australian Wine club.