Terroir drives taste in stylish reds from Hesketh, Allegiance, Tomich and Willow Bridge
The French call it terroir and these four reds from the Barossa, Coonawarra, the Adelaide Hills and Geographe have it in spades - at half the price.
The French call it terroir – the unique environmental aspects that influence how a wine tastes.
Soil type and quality, microclimates, aspect to the sun and wind, proximity to hills, rivers and oceans – all of these variables combine to have an impact on grapes and wine.
The French have studied terroir for centuries, going back to the monks of Burgundy who established the boundaries of different terroirs, some of which exist today as the Grand Cru vineyards. Indeed, terroir is the basis of the French wine appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) system, which governs which varieties are grown in which regions.
We are less obsessed with mapping terroir in Australia but the impact of “place” in shaping the characters expressed in wine flows through every bottle. Taste similar quality cabernet sauvignon from the same vintage grown in Coonawarra and Margaret River, for example, and you’ll notice consistent differences; the same applies to riesling from valleys Eden and Clare.
Terroir is the driving force behind South Australia’s Hesketh Wine Company, whose plush Ebenezer shiraz is on show in The Australian Wine Club’s deal of the week. We’re offering four high-quality reds from four different regions at a one-off 50 per cent discount.
Hesketh, established by Jonathon Hesketh in 2006, sources particular varietals from different regions and vineyards rather than building its wine brand around one particular region.
You’ll find in its portfolio, for example, riesling from Eden Valley, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir from the Adelaide Hills, fiano from Clare, cabernet from Coonawarra and shiraz from the Barossa.
“The idea is to draw on the strengths of different regions and vineyards, and the wines are made to retain a sense of place,’’ says Jonathon, whose father Robert was a major player in shaping the Australian wine industry through the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s.
Hesketh has also developed a subregional series, which promotes the idea of terroir by honing in on specific sites in subregions to show off specific characters. Hesketh offers a Lobethal chardonnay (Adelaide Hills) and a Penola cabernet (Coonawarra), as well as the Ebenezer shiraz.
Ebenezer is located in the northern reaches of the Barossa and sits at a higher altitude than much of the valley, with its old vineyards mainly growing in sandy soils over red earth and clay. Originally settled by Lutherans in 1852, the subregion over the years has provided grapes to iconic wines such as Penfolds Grange and RWT, Torbreck RunRig and Chateau Tanunda’s Terroirs of the Barossa range.
Ebenezer is celebrated for an elegant, fragrant and structured style of shiraz, with its unique characters including lifted aromas of lavender and spice.
The Hesketh Ebenezer shiraz is sourced from three blocks within a site known as the Resurrection Vineyard, which sits up to 320m above sea level. Jonathon explains that one of the blocks is located higher in the vineyard on poorer, shallower soils and produces fragrant, bright fruits, while the other two blocks are on deeper soils, where vines of up to 88 years old provide rich, dark fruit flavours and add a plushness and heavier palate weight to the wine.
Hesketh Ebenezer Barossa Valley Shiraz 2018
Complex nose of spicy plums, mulberry, rhubarb, lifted florals and sarsaparilla trigger the senses. The palate is awash with dark plums, sour cherries, red licorice and vanilla bean running along a clean acid line. Lovely sweetness mid-palate on the way to a long, lingering finish. So much to enjoy. Matured in new and used French oak barriques for 18 months. An absolute steal at this price. 14% alc; RRP $34 a bottle.
SPECIALS$21.99 a bottle in any dozen; $18.88 a bottle in Regional Heroes dozen
Allegiance Wines The Artisan Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
Multiple gold medal winner. Generous nose of blackcurrant, green capsicum, Kaffir lime and Thai curry spices. The powerful flavours direct you straight to Coonawarra: blackcurrant and cassis, with hints of menthol and cedar. Grippy tannins. Will age for at least 10 years. Scored 95 points from Wine Orbit and gold medals at the Melbourne International Wine Show and six other international wine competitions. 14.5% alc; RRP $60 a bottle.
SPECIALS $49.99 a bottle in any dozen; $18.88 a bottle in Regional Heroes dozen
Willow Bridge Dragonfly Geographe Cabernet Merlot 2020
From a vineyard 25km from the Indian Ocean at Geographe, just south of Margaret River, comes a super-friendly cabernet merlot. You’ll find aromas of oregano, red capsicum, cassis, plum and anise. Dark fruits define the palate; with smoked paprika and light hints of eucalypt in the background. This is soft, juicy and rounded. With terroir on our mind, it’s worth noting the vineyard sits up to 280m above sea level and captures cooling afternoon sea breezes. The owners say the site is generally two degrees or so cooler than the coastal plain, with ripening times similar to the southern parts of Margaret River. 14% alc; RRP $22 a bottle.
SPECIALS $16.49 a bottle in any dozen; $18.88 a bottle in Regional Heroes dozen
Tomich Woodside Vineyard Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2020
From a winery garnering a reputation for delivering outstanding value vintage after vintage. You’ll find a vibrant nose of toasted coconut, sweet licorice and vanilla cake. The palate is soft and medium-bodied with mulberries, plums, warm spices and pepper humming along a seam of tangy acidity. Firm tannins and a long finish. 94 points from Winestate magazine. 14% alc; RRP $35 a bottle.
SPECIALS$21.99 a bottle in any dozen; $18.88 a bottle in Regional Heroes dozen
REGIONAL HEROES DOZEN
Three bottles of each wine above for $18.88 a bottle. SAVE $226.50
15-BOTTLE DEALAdd 3 bottles of the 2021 Mountadam Vineyards Eden Valley Pinot Gris (RRP $28 a bottle) for $17.90 a bottle across the 15.
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Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, from 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.
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