Affordable Bordeaux and southern Rhones wines from Chateau Le Coin and Cuvee du Vatican

Classic affordable reds from Bordeaux and the southern Rhone are an ideal starting point for wine fans wanting to unlock the mysteries of France.

 

If the world of French wines is something of a mystery, here’s a very simple starting point to navigating Bordeaux and beyond.

The Australian Wine Club’s deal of the week focuses on super-affordable merlot and grenache-based blends from Bordeaux, Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Pays d’Oc so we’ll start our wanderings there.

Bordeaux, in France’s southwest near the Atlantic coast, is famous for cabernet, merlot and malbec. Margaret River cabernet blends are sometimes equated to those of Bordeaux. In fact, agricultural scientist John Gladstones, from the University of Western Australia, published two reports in the 1960s that compared Margaret River’s climate to Bordeaux’s Pomeral region.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most renowned appellations of the southern part in the Rhone Valley, where grenache is king. Other red varietals grown under the strict Appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) rules are shiraz, mourvedre and cinsault.

Pays d’Oc, in France’s Mediterranean south, is an Indication Geographique Protegee (IGP) covering the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region. Producers here can make wine outside AOC laws from a more comprehensive list of approved grape varieties. Wines can also be labelled by variety, like in Australia.

Mark Hoddy, who sources wines from southern France for our wine club, says wine fans who love fruity Barossa styles should love reds from the warm Rhone and Languedoc regions. Let’s jump in.

Cuvee du Vatican Reserve de l’Abbe Cotes du Rhone 2020

Behind this label is a story that goes back centuries. The family of winemaker Jean-Marc Diffonty has been growing and harvesting the riches of Chateauneuf du Pape since the 1670s. Olives and vegetables were the order of the day until 1902 when Jean-Marc’s great grandfather produced, bottled and sold their first vintage. Jean-Marc’s father, Felician Diffonty, who was also the mayor of Chateauneuf-du-Pape for 30 years until 1995, named the family’s 15ha domain Cuvee du Vatican.

Since taking over in the early 1990s, Jean-Marc has focused on sustainable vineyard practices. He launched a limited quantity wine, Reserve Sixtine, created from vines up to 115 years old, and later changed the domain name Cuvee du Vatican to Chateau Sixtine, now one of Chateauneuf’s most prestigious brands. He uses his award-winning skills to produce the Cuvee du Vatican range as a wonderfully affordable entry point to the more expensive Chateau Sixtine wines. The 2020 is crafted from grenache and shiraz grown just outside the Chateauneuf boundary. You’ll find rich red cherry and rose petal aromas, ripe red fruits and wild herb complexity on the palate. This is a wine with a voluptuous mouthfeel and soft tannins. It’s an easygoing classic in the Cuvee du Vatican mould – a style described by influential American critic Robert Parker Jr as “full-bodied, powerful, rich and oozing unmistakeable Provencal character”. 14.5% alcohol; RRP $24 a bottle.

SPECIALS $17.99 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in French dozen

Cabalie Coup de Coeur 2020

For lovers of juicy, easy-drinking, rich, fruity reds. Cabalie wines are made from grenache and carignan grapes from old vines at Maury in Roussillon. Acclaimed winemaker Herve Sabardeil has released this grand cru version of a wine he’s been making for more than 20 years. Ageing in oak for six months has added complexity and intensity to the trademark Cabalie softness and fruit sweetness. Purple flowers, raspberries, damson plums and cedar notes on the nose; velvety texture, with sweet black fruits, mocha and spice flavours balanced by a burst of fresh acidity. Instant drinking pleasure. 14% alcohol; RRP $30 a bottle.

SPECIALS $23.99 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in French dozen

Chateau Le Coin Bordeaux 2020

Chateau Le Coin sits across Bordeaux’s Dordogne river from the grand estates of Saint Emilion such as Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Pavie. With a similar climate and soil, Chateau Le Coin produces entry-level Bordeaux that shares some of the characters as the more illustrious (and expensive) merlot produced on the right bank. Our man in Bordeaux, Jean-Marc Sauboua, began making wine with the owner of the Chateau Le Coin vineyard, Ludovic Roussillon, about 20 years ago. The 2020 vintage produced superbly balanced fruit. Classic Bordeaux aromas lift from the glass: cassis, plum and leather, followed by tobacco, cigar box and licorice characters. Blackcurrant and plum flavours drive the medium-bodied palate, along with vanilla and cocoa. Grippy tannins. Decant for an hour while you prepare a rack of lamb with garlic and rosemary, gratin dauphinoise and green beans. Awarded Grand Gold at the Berliner Wine Trophy. 14.5% alcohol; RRP $28 a bottle.

SPECIALS $21.99 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in French dozen

 

Chateau Le Bonalguet Bordeaux 2020

From a small estate in Saint-Germain du Puch, between Bordeaux and Saint-Emilion. Owners Agnes and Alexandre Sueur focus on merlot and cabernet and their wines were awarded 23 gold medals between 2015 and 2020. This merlot-based blend opens with subtle cassis, bramble and charry oak aromas on the nose, with hints of coffee and licorice. Soft tannins and balanced acidity. Needs time to open up. 13.5% alcohol; RRP $32 a bottle.

SPECIALS $22.99 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in French dozen.

FRENCH DOZEN Three bottles of each wine above for $19.99 a bottle.

Save $102.

 

15-BOTTLE DEALAdd three bottles of French white Abbesse Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (11.5% alcohol; RRP $24.00) for $18.49 a bottle across the 15 bottles.

Order online or phone [phone] Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550. John Lehmann is the managing director of The Australian.