Great Southern riesling rises to top at Bryon & Harold, Alkoomi, Rosenthal and Ferngrove
Discover the ‘hidden gem’ of Australian wine, producing world-class riesling in a dramatic landscape of coastal headlands and ancient forests.
If Margaret River is the golden child of Western Australian wine, Great Southern is the wilder brother.
But boy, this unique wine region is being taken seriously by those in the know. “It’s the hidden gem of Australian wine,’’ says Paul Byron, who’s been making highly rated wines in Great Southern since launching his Byron & Harold label to considerable acclaim 12 years ago.
The Australian Wine Club this week jumps on the bandwagon, shining a light on Great Southern riesling, one of the region’s great varietal success stories. We’re offering four quality rieslings at little more than $20 a pop.
Great Southern stretches north, east and west from Western Australia’s rugged south coast, across dramatic oceanfront and headlands, through ancient tall timber forests, to vast rolling landscapes. It’s the biggest of Australia’s wine regions – 100km north to south and 150km east to west – and is made up of five subregions: Frankland River, Mount Barker, Porongurup, Albany and Denmark.
Byron & Harold added its name to the wave of highly rated wineries emerging from the south in 2015, when our club president James Halliday named it one of his top 10 “new wineries” of the year and awarded a five-star rating.
Paul and his partner, Ralph (Harold) Dunning, together have more than 65 years of experience in the wine game and believe Great Southern adds to Western Australia’s appeal by producing excellent cool-climate riesling and shiraz, complementing Margaret River’s world-class chardonnay and cabernet.
Frankland River and Mount Barker have become particularly strong subregions for growing riesling, with a lightness of touch combined with ripeness of fruit hallmarks of many of these wines.
“What you find in good Great Southern riesling is fruit purity, natural acid and a lovely minerality on the palate,’’ Paul says.
Another top-class riesling featuring in our line-up this week comes from Alkoomi, one of Great Southern’s pioneers, established more than 50 years ago. Located 350km south of Perth and a good hour’s drive from a local grocery store, Alkoomi’s sprawling 1200ha property in Frankland River is regarded as Australia’s most isolated winery.
Winemaker Andrew Cherry has been making Alkoomi’s wines for the past 14 years and calls out Frankland River’s climate – particularly the temperature spread between hot summer days and cool nights – as a key factor.
“In summer it’s quite normal to have days in the 30s (degrees Celsius) and nights below 10C,’’ he says. “This really helps develop the natural acidity you want in riesling.”
Andrew, who has worked in Clare Valley at O’Leary Walker, says while lemon and lime juice flavours drive good Clare rieslings, he sees sherbet-like characters and fine natural acid as hallmarks of Frankland River.
“Some people see grapefruit and musk characters but that’s not for me to say – it’s up to those drinking the wine to taste what they taste.”
Over to you.
Byron & Harold Chapter & Verse Great Southern Riesling 2021
From vineyards in Frankland River and Mount Barker, this 2021 entices with aromas of white flowers, musk and talc. Subtle citrus flavours – lime leaf and lemon zest – combine with refreshing minerality on the palate, backed by a soft acid line flowing to a crisp finish. Nice introduction to Great Southern riesling. 12% alc; RRP $32 a bottle.
SPECIALS $21.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 a bottle in riesling dozen
Rosenthal The Marker Great Southern Riesling 2022
Super fresh. Perfumed aromatics of jasmine and citrus blossom jump from the glass. Intense flavours of green apples, honeydew melon and lime cordial swirl across the palate, held together around a backbone of natural acid. Created with Mount Barker fruit by best mates and winemakers Luke Eckersley and Coby Ladwig, who have run this boutique winery at Denmark for the past 10 years. Outstanding value in this special offer. 11.9% alc; RRP $35 a bottle
SPECIALS $26.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 a bottle in riesling dozen
Alkoomi Black Label Frankland River Riesling 2020
Classic Great Southern riesling with a delicateness that is irresistible. Sourced from Alkoomi’s first plantings (1971) and a block planted 20 years ago. Only free-run juice used. Lifted orange blossom and grapefruit on the nose, with lemon rind and lime flavours and soft minerally acid. Poised, precise and powerful. Will live on for years. Vegan-friendly. 94 Halliday points. 12% alc; RRP $32 a bottle.
SPECIALS $24.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 a bottle in riesling dozen
Ferngrove Black Label Frankland River Riesling 2020
This Frankland River winery was established in 1998 to focus on producing consistent cool-climate wines. The Black Label riesling is grown on the oldest block on the property and shows off aromas of lemon, lime zest and lanolin. There’s a lovely richness on the palate, with lemon curd flavours and that trademark Frankland River mineral character flowing through to a refreshing finish. Awarded gold at the WA Boutique/Single Vineyard Show and silver at the International Cool-Climate Wine Show. 11.5% alc; RRP $22 a bottle
SPECIALS $19.99 a bottle in any dozen; $20.83 a bottle in riesling dozen
RIESLING SPECIAL Three bottles of each wine for $20.83 a bottle. SAVE $113 a dozen.
Order online or phone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, 8am to 6pm AEST. Deals available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.
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