The ultimate luxury lodge stay in New Zealand

On the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island, it’s easy to settle into farmhouse life at Cape Kidnappers. The light-filled lodge, made of rustic stone and macrocarpa, is filled with deep sofas, fireplaces, antique workbenches and paintings by notable artists such as Sir Toss Woollaston to gaze upon as you cosy up in the converted and integrated grain silo with paddock-to-ocean views.

A few steps past the sheep-trough water feature, cottage suites are equally charming with barn doors, shearling chairs and deep baths.

What a place.

The much photographed 15th hole - Pirate’s Plank - at Cape Kidnappers.

I’ve only just checked in and I’m already persuaded by the operator’s “tangible sense of place” hype. It’s pitched as a key quality shared by each of the 30 or so uber-luxe Rosewood hotels around the globe – so much so that Rosewood has trademarked the motto.

Far beyond New Zealand, Rosewood’s diverse and prestigious portfolio includes Paris’ 18th century palace Hotel de Crillon, and New York’s The Carlyle, an art deco landmark of the Upper East Side since the 1930s and one block from Central Park.

So the Hong-Kong owned group’s entry into Oceania late last year – taking on New Zealand’s storied Robertson Lodges comprising Cape Kidnappers, Kauri Cliffs and Matakauri Lodge – looks to be a match made in the hotel heavens.

The converted silo

Cape Kidnappers delivers pure escape, says Rosewood’s Hoss Ventry, pointing to the rolling hills, dramatic cliffs of lime, sandstone and clay and rugged coast at the event to mark the hotel handover in the Hawkes Bay wine region and a 35-minute drive from Napier.

“I ran into a couple in the lobby and I asked ‘why are you here’ and they said, ‘Look at it, where do you ever see this?’ ” he says. “New Zealand is beautiful, but this property is even beyond that.”

The Cape Kidnappers journey started in 2004 when New Yorkers Julian and Josie Robertson, whose association with New Zealand began three decades earlier when the couple took a sabbatical year, bought 2400 hectares of pastoral land on a peninsula to the east of Hawke’s Bay wine country.

The 2400 hectare property.

Once finished, there was accommodation atop the hill designed to resemble a most stylish cluster of farm buildings, the largest private wildlife sanctuary in NZ plus a championship golf course designed by Tom Doak taking in five “fingers” of land with views so stunning even the golf novice should consider requesting a turn around the course in a buggy.

The course architecture, combined with the raw, beautiful piece of land that it sits on, quite often “blows people away”, says golf course superintendent Brad Sim, who with a team of 16 manages the agronomics and daily set-up. Pirates Plank, the 15th, is not only the most photographed but also the hardest rated hole on the course.

“Just like a real pirate’s plank – if you go right you’re dead [on that hole], left you’re dead, and off the end you’re also dead,” Sim says.

“But to be honest, it could be the same result literally if you don’t stay on the right side of the fence and firmly on the nice manicured fairways.”

Guests can also explore the property by off-road vehicle, along wild beaches and past some of the country’s oldest manuka stands.

On the edge of a cliff overlooking Black Reef, they can stop to view the world’s largest, most accessible mainland colony of golden-header gannets, or takapu – their collective and raucous “metallic clangour” is delightful if mildly deafening.

Comfortable suites at Cape Kidnappers.

Josie, who died in 2010, helped realise a place that was a quintessentially New Zealand design, marrying the spirit of a working farm with comfort and luxury.

One of the three Robertson sons, Jay, who managed the properties for 11 years, says his parents were true pioneers and visionaries. “My mother really spearheaded the lodge project here at Cape Kidnappers and I got to see this project transform from a paddock essentially to what we have now,” he says.

Jay says he and brothers Spencer and Alex will continue their involvement with New Zealand and the lodges, but they will next focus on the nature reserve, the farm and the golf course.

Julian and Josie Robertson at Cape Kidnappers in 2005.

“My mother would say this if she were here – these aren’t museums. They should continue to evolve … I view it as Robertson Lodge as the first chapter and Rosewood is the next.”

Julian and Josie were also notable philanthropists throughout their lives (Julian died in 2022). In February, the Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki unveiled The Robertson Gift: Paths through Modernity, comprising 15 works from European artists, including Cezanne, Dali, Gauguin, Matisse and Picasso.

On display at the golf clubhouse on an antique workbench sits a framed photo of a smiling Josie and Julian presenting the winner’s trophy to golfer Hunter Mahan at the Kiwi Challenge tournament in 2008.

It’s an enduring reminder of this couple’s remarkable legacy.

The writer travelled as a guest of Rosewood Hotels and Air New Zealand.

THE DETAILS

STAY
Rosewood Cape Kidnappers suites cost from $2300 a night and include breakfast and dinner with aperitif. See https://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/

FLY
Air New Zealand has multiple flights daily from Sydney and Melbourne to Auckland and Wellington with connections to Napier. Cape Kidnappers is a 35-minute drive from Napier. See airnewzealand.com.au