The charming riverside wine region in the midst of a craft beer boom

Dense, dark and decadent, my drink looks a bit like a Guinness. But one sip is all it takes to shatter that illusion. At 11 per cent ABV (alcohol by volume), Murder in Porto is almost three times as potent as the “black stuff” brewed in Dublin, and much stronger than my usual beers of choice.

But seeing as I’m in Porto, I can’t resist this arrestingly named imperial stout, which has been aged in barrels of port, a fortified wine famously stored and matured in the cellars and warehouses here by the River Douro.

Hop-tastic bars flourish in and around Porto’s historic centre.Credit: Getty Images

While viticulture has long dominated Portugal’s second city and the wider, vineyard-laced Douro Valley, travellers who prefer beer (cerveja) are increasingly merry here. Microbreweries, taprooms and hop-tastic bars flourish in and around Porto’s historic centre; places like Baobab, which is hidden on a quiet lane behind the neoclassical City Hall, and typifies the craft beer scene here. There are chalkboard menus advertising current trendsetters, an impressive variety of ales on tap and in fridges, and friendly staff happy to share tips (and samples). Helpfully, their English is much more fluid than my Portuguese.

Perched on a bar stool, I slowly imbibe my Murder in Porto, which was actually created by Dois Corvos (Two Crows), a brewery based in Lisbon, Porto’s big rival. A half pint of this mind-blowing concoction is enough for me and I’m grateful for the complimentary bowl of stomach-lining peanuts slid across to me by the smiling bartender.

Porto, the Douro River and the old town skyline.Credit: Getty Images

Branching out from Baobab, I find other spots within walking distance. At Catraio Craft Beer Shop and Bar, in the buzzy inner-city enclave of Cedofeita, there’s a raft of global and Portuguese brews, including their own Brotherhood hazy pale ale. A pint of that goes down smoothly as I people-watch from one of the tables spilling onto Cedofeita’s pedestrianised main strip. Another choice with streetside seating is Cervejaria do Carmo, which has a great position facing the Carmo church, an 18th-century baroque beauty with decorative blue-and-white azulejos (tiles) adorning its exterior.

Strong and dark – Murder in Porto, a potent stout aged in a port wine barrel.Credit: Steve McKenna

I’m visiting Porto on a Collette tour, and with three nights here – and a mix of guided activities and free time – there’s ample opportunity to investigate the city’s beer trail. The streets north and east of the recently overhauled Bolhao Market are also rich in beer-drinking possibilities. I like the vibe and soundtrack at Colossus, a taproom-microbrewery that’s worth the climb up steep Rua Dom Joao IV. Here they brew just metres from where patrons sip the likes of Philosopher Brown Ale and Saturday Night Lager, with tunes from Motorhead, Metallica, Led Zeppelin and company booming around a bar decorated with a fake skull, electric guitar and heavy metal concert posters.

Streetside cafes in Porto.Credit: Getty Images

Elsewhere, I enjoy a $3 half pint of house pilsner at Armazem, which has a selection of Portuguese and Spanish craft beers, plus a darts board and a covered patio out back. Around the corner, Letraria has a large, family-friendly and delightfully secluded beer garden with citrus trees and vegetable plots. Its in-house brews come in all sorts of styles, from breezy Bohemian pilsners to chocolatey Belgian dark ales, and you can order them with burgers and snacks such as croquettes, chicken wings and samosas.

I’m after a more quintessentially Portuguese dish, so I head to A Regaleria, a restaurant that claims to serve the authentic version of the francesinha – a chunkier, belly-filling Porto version of the French croque-monsieur. They say it’s been made with the same “secret” recipe since 1952, when it was rustled up by Daniel David da Silva, a Portuguese bartender employed here after returning from France.

Topped with a fried egg, my francesinha is a multi-storey parcel of smoked ham, sausage and cheese, and coated in a thick, aromatic gravy infused with various ingredients, including tomatoes and (apparently) beer. And guess what? A Regaleria also brews its own ale. This malty, amber-hued tipple – 4.7 per cent ABV – pairs nicely with its star dish. Yes, even better than peanuts and Murder in Porto.

The details

Tour
Departing Lisbon on dates throughout the year, and priced from $6229 per person, Collette’s 15-day Flavours of Portugal & Spain tour includes three nights in Porto. See gocollette.com/en-au

Fly
Emirates flies to Lisbon from Sydney and Melbourne via Dubai, with onward connections to Porto. Regular trains also connect the two cities, with a journey time of just over three hours. See emirates.com

More
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The writer travelled as a guest of Collette.