Fort de Chaudanne, Besancon, in the department of Doubs.Credit: Getty Images
If you rent a car and cut inland from the tourist-heaving Cote d’Azur north-west in the direction of well-known Avignon, you’re in for a mighty surprise.
I did just that recently and for 200 kilometres drove through a region of wild scenery, the Verdon Gorge and tiny towns, until I was coughed up in Luberon, where sleepy villages slumped against a quilt of olive groves and sunflower fields backed by orangey hills.
Luberon is a small region of Provence, the busiest French tourist region outside Paris, yet it sits happily beyond tour groups, river cruisers and Riviera jet-setters.
Of course, it isn’t entirely ignored, which is a good thing. I stay at Hotel Coquillade Provence, which shows that getting over mainstream horizons doesn’t mean sacrificing style, a swimming pool and fine dining.
La Coquillade in the Luberon.
Yet I squint over a valley striped with vineyards and punctuated with spindly cypress trees that seem a thousand kilometres from care. The region’s roads are uncluttered, which makes this a top walking and cycling destination.
Luberon is the whir of bicycle wheels, the chirping of cicadas and gurgle of poured wine as I tuck into smoked duck breast with white asparagus. The cackle of tour groups and hen’s parties is far beyond earshot.
France is the world’s most-visited country, with international tourist arrivals somewhere between 90 and 100 million, depending on who produces the statistics. That’s a lot of people.
But have you heard of Luberon? Or Lozere, France’s least-populated department? And yes, you’ve heard of Champagne and Normandy, and may have visited, but few stray beyond their narrow tourist trails.
An aerial view of Bonifacio in Corsica.Credit: Getty Images
Other places such as Corsica are visited mostly by French tourists. Ile-de-France, the compact region that includes Paris, has 165,660 hotel rooms, while the whole of Corsica has just 12,676.
Even in the world’s most tourist-busy nation you’ll find towns, national parks and whole regions that get far fewer visitors than more famous counterparts. Some might be crowded with in-the-know Europeans over certain seasons but go well under the radar of Australians. For those who think they’ve done France, here’s a taster of its relatively less-visited but deserving regions. Get beyond the obvious and France rewards you.
LUBERON
The Luberon valley seen from Bonnieux.Credit: Getty Images
Where A small, mountainous region of southern France just east of Avignon and north of Aix-en-Provence, yet over the horizon from big-name Provence sights and the main Rhone river tourist corridor.
Why we love it This is a corner of Provence without the van Gogh tea towels and lavender sachets, where you can abandon kitsch for a more rugged holiday beyond the crowds. Luberon’s rugged uplands and valleys feature perched villages, old monasteries, olive groves, vineyards and lavender fields. It’s also one of France’s top cycling and hiking destinations.
The town of Gordes in the Luberon.Credit:
Don’t miss Gordes and Bonnieux are top towns but Saignon is a “secret” alternative for its medieval architecture and magnificent outlooks. Luberon’s castles are grimly functional and mostly ruined but Chateau de Lourmarin has historic rooms, flower-dotted terraces and a gorgeous setting. The yellow-signed, three-hour return walk between Bonnieux and Lacoste is lovely.
Essentials July is peak lavender season. Stay at Hotel Coquillade Provence, which has a spa and excellent dining and overlooks vineyards and Luberon Regional Nature Park. It’s designed to resemble one of Luberon’s medieval villages. See destinationluberon.com
DORDOGNE VALLEY
The cliff-perched pilgrim town of Rocamadour.Credit: Getty Images
Where The Dordogne river joins the Gironde estuary near Bordeaux. The further inland and east you travel along it, the wilder it gets, until it flows through deep gorges. Popular with summering Brits and Germans but not well-known to Australians.
Why we love it The scenery is utterly delightful. The river snakes through lush countryside framed in limestone cliffs and overlooked by medieval villages and brooding castles. Add ancient history, venerable market towns and great food – especially truffles – and you have the perfect distillation of France.
Chateau de la Treyne in the upper Dordogne Valley.Credit:
Don’t miss Lively market town Libourne has quaint 16th-century townhouses and a Gothic church, Bergerac an impressive medieval centre topped by a dramatic castle, and Rocamadour is a cliff-perched pilgrim town. Perigueux and Cahors are other ancient towns, and almost every village is gorgeous. The Lascaux caves house fabulous Cro-Magnon paintings estimated at being about 15,000 to 20,000 years old.
Essentials Visit in May, June or September. The ultimate in romance is the atmospheric, medieval Chateau de la Treyne hotel in the upper Dordogne, sitting on a crag overlooking the river. Its restaurant has a Michelin star. See nouvelle-aquitaine-tourisme.com
ARDENNES
The Meuse river in Monthermé, Ardennes, France.Credit: Getty Images
Where A region of forested hills mostly within Belgium but spilling across the border into north-east France (and Germany). It’s historically part of Champagne but few visitors stray beyond the vineyards and cellar doors.
Why we love it Sure, there’s plenty of fizz, but just as agreeable are the region’s pretty lakes, forest and rolling hills – which make it a centre for hiking, climbing and mountain biking – and venerable cities prominent in France’s early history. Can’t complain about a region that produces top charcuterie and pate, either.
Champagne vineyards of Champagne-Ardenne, now part of Grand Est.Credit: iStock
Don’s miss Join the flow and drive the 220-kilometre Champagne Route but leave plenty of time for an escape into the alternatives. Top historical sights are Reims for its superb cathedral and archbishop’s residence, half-timbered old town Troyes, and the whopping fortress at Sedan. Star-shaped fortified village Rocroi is intriguing.
Essentials Aim for September-October and you’ll get splendid autumn foliage. Stay at riverside Chateau de Wallerand, which has a luxe spa, gourmet restaurant and just 10 rooms, whose contemporary chic contrasts with the building’s 18th-century architecture. See ardennes.com
CAMARGUE
A traditional ranch with cattle-herding gardiens (cowboys).Credit: Getty Images
Where A marshy coastal region between Montpellier and Marseille where the Rhone river – forming one of Europe’s largest deltas – meets the Mediterranean. It’s a peaceful enclave near tourist-busy Provence and the French Riviera.
Why we love it This sliver of the much-visited Mediterranean manages not just tranquillity but unusual, almost wild-seeming landscapes that are home to wild horses and abundant waterbirds, none more striking than flamingos. A cowboy culture, Spanish cultural influences and Romany festivals add to its oddities. Lake swimming makes for a change, too, though there are Mediterranean beaches.
February-March is peak flamingo season.Credit: Getty Images
Don’t miss Horse riding through the wetlands and visiting a traditional ranch with the cattle-herding gardiens (cowboys) is a must. Kitschy seaside Le Grau-du-Roi (popular with French beachgoers) is best for surrounding dunes, while Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is an ancient pilgrim town. The imposing, fortified town of Aigues-Mortes, water lapping its walls, is the highlight.
Essentials February-March is peak flamingo season, although some are present year-round. Stay at mid-priced, 15th-century Villa Mazarin, which combines contemporary and traditional regional styles and sits inside walled city Aigues-Mortes. See visit-occitanie.com
LOZERE
Gorges du Tarn canyon in Lozere.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Where A little, landlocked, mountainous French department in south-central France, and the one with the smallest population (83,000 inhabitants). It gets few visitors despite being in Occitania, which gets 30 million.
Why we love it Four mini-mountain ranges collide here to rugged effect and offer something we don’t always associate with France: terrific hiking and mountain biking. Cevennes National Park has volcanic remnants, hurried rivers and meadow uplands. This is France freed from cultural duties, and Lozere feels surprisingly remote.
Don’t miss Anduze makes for an attractive base. The deep, picturesque Gorges du Tarn is the best-known destination but you can escape even further into Gorges de la Jonte and Gorges de la Dourbie. Chaos de Nimes-le-Vieux has wonderfully weird karst rock formations. Sainte-Enimie, La Garde-Guerin and Le Malzieu-Ville rank highly in the pretty-village stakes.
Essentials Spring and autumn are best for hiking; summer can get busy with French holidaymakers. Stay at four-star, 15th-century Chateau de la Caze on the Tarn river, set in a lovely park with a heated pool. See lozere-tourisme.com
PICARDY
The pretty village of Gerberoy.Credit: Getty Images
Where This historical north-eastern territory, now known as Hauts-de-France and administered from Lille, was famously fought over in the Middle Ages and during World War I, but beyond the Somme battlefields it has many more reasons to visit.
Why we love it Picardy begins only an hour north of Paris and, although packed with historic towns, it is dotted with nature reserves, forest and waterways that give way to estuaries and beaches. It’s incredibly history-dense, and the Australian connection to World War I in places such as Villers-Bretonneux is moving.
Don’t miss You get a surfeit of chateaux in France but two of them in Picardy – Chantilly and Pierrefonds – are among the most gorgeous. Elegant Compiegne makes for a lively and sophisticated base and has another chateau much-loved by Napoleon, part of which houses a national car museum. Walled city Laon, pretty village Gerberoy and the Gothic cathedral at Amiens are further highlights.
Essentials Visit in April for Anzac Day commemorative services. Stay at boutique Hotel Marotte in Amiens for a central location. It has both traditional rooms and contemporary suites in the adjacent The Cube, as well as a great spa. See hautsdefrancetourism.com
JURA MOUNTAINS
Besancon, on the Doubs River, a popular gateway to Burgundy and the Jura Mountains.Credit: Adobe
Where These limestone mountains straddle the France-Switzerland border and two French departments, Jura and Doubs, but are scarcely known to foreign visitors despite their gorges, lakes, forests, cave systems and historical towns.
Why we love it Who doesn’t like mountains? Sure, the scale is smaller than the Alps, but so are the crowds, and you still get green lakes, limestone cliffs and cow-chewed meadows that produce Comte, the French equivalent of Gruyere. The hearty regional mountain food and local wine (mostly chardonnay and sauvignon) is great, too.
Don’t miss Tucked away from the tourist gaze, Besancon is the capital of Franche-Comte and a graceful 18th-century town encircled by the Doubs river and a monumental, UNESCO-listed citadel. Ornans is the most picturesque village, Chateau de Joux the most impressive medieval remnant. Then hit the trails of Jura National Park.
Essentials Autumn starts to get chilly but you can’t beat the colours of the forest and vineyards. Besancon makes for a good base. Stay in former monastery Hotel le Sauvage, which has a wallow-worthy spa and good restaurant. See jura-tourism.com
CORSICA
Bastia’s old town and harbour, Corsica.Credit: Getty Images
Where We’ve all heard of Corsica, the large Mediterranean island closer to Italy (and especially Sardinia) than France, and birthplace of Napoleon. But only recently has tourism boomed, and mostly it’s the French who holiday there.
Why we love it Sapphire seas, a marvellous coastline claiming several of Europe’s best beaches, high mountains scented with rosemary, and Italianate towns set the scene. Add a distinctive language and culture, and fierce independent streak, and you have a France that isn’t like the France you expect.
The town of Bonifacio on Corsica, France.Credit: iStock
Don’t miss Bonifacio, a citadel founded in the ninth century that feels like a pirates’ lair and clings like a limpet to cliffs on Corsica’s southern tip. In the north, Calvi’s citadel claims a scenic peninsula, and nearby Scandola Nature Reserve is stunning. Walled medieval Algajola faces a lovely beach. Don’t miss the mountains; the GR20 is a magnificent hiking path.
Essentials Avoid the heat and local tourists by visiting mid-May to mid-June. A’Mare Corsica positions you halfway between Ajaccio and Bonifacio in a boutique five-star hotel with a Mediterranean beach and plenty of water sports. See visit-corsica.com
LIMOUSIN
Collonges-la-Rouge, one of France’s most picturesque villages.Credit: Adobe
Where The rural, lightly populated north-west corner of the Massif Central in southern France. Limoges is the only city of any size (126,000 inhabitants), even though the region is halfway between the popular Loire Valley and Bordeaux.
Why we love it This is a quiet destination of rumpled hills where you can enjoy the French country lifestyle without jet-setting crowds and overpricing. Yet when you’re ready for something to do, you’ll find hiking in Perigord-Limousin Regional Natural Park, fine old villages such as Collonges-la-Rouge, and various cultural sights.
Oradour-sur-Glane’s main street with the tramway line.Credit: Getty
Don’t miss The culture is found in Crozant, where impressionist painters hung out; Aubusson, with its tapestry-producing history; and the Adrien Dubouche National Museum of porcelain in Limoges. Rochechouart has the best chateau, Saint-Junien a Romanesque basilica. The haunting ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane are a grim memorial to a 1942 massacre by the Nazi Waffen-SS.
Essentials September has pleasant weather for walks, and French holidaymakers have dwindled. Stay at La Chapelle Saint-Martin, a lovely villa in a sprawling park with a top-notch Relais & Chateaux restaurant under a Michelin-starred chef. See visitlimousin.com
UPPER NORMANDY
Colourful houses in Rouen, Normandy.Credit: Ekaterina Belova - stock.adobe.com
Where We’ve all heard of Normandy but the eastern part of it on the English Channel through which the Seine river slithers isn’t as visited as Lower Normandy, which has a bigger reputation thanks to seaside resorts and World War II beaches.
Why we love it The misty countryside is nibbled by cheese-producing cows and covered in apple orchards that provide cider and brandy, while coastal waters add great shellfish. History lovers will find chateaux and churches everywhere, and the energetic will enjoy clifftop walks around Etretat.
The Chateau-Gaillard ruins, perched above the Seine.Credit: iStock
Don’t miss Rouen has terrific medieval architecture and a cathedral much-painted by Monet yet hasn’t turned into a tourist Disneyland and retains a busy, lived-in atmosphere. Two wonderful ruins are Chateau Gaillard on a bluff above the Seine, and the Benedictine abbey at Jumieges. Industrial port Le Havre is World Heritage-listed for its post-World War II architecture.
Essentials June is a good month for weather and D-Day anniversary commemorations. Stay at Novotel Suites Rouen Normandy, which gets you near Rouen city centre but has rooms with space and a kitchenette to prepare market and bakery goodies. See normandie-tourisme.fr
Beyond Paris: Five overlooked cities in France
Burgundy’s Hospices de Beaune with its distinctive courtyard and glazed terracotta roofs.Credit: Getty Images
Dijon You’ve heard of the mustard but have you been to the city that makes it, for a tour of one of the mustard-making companies? Dijon has much more besides, including a very agreeable old town, several Gothic churches and one of France’s best provincial art galleries for uncrowded appreciation. It’s also chock-full of fine restaurants, 20 of which get a nod in the Michelin guide. See destinationdijon.com
Nimes Many travellers come down the Rhone Valley and turn towards the Riviera. Head west instead and you’ll enjoy this lively city cluttered with cafes and tapas bars and preserving some of the world’s best ancient Roman remains, including a near-intact temple and amphitheatre. Pont du Gard outside town is a spectacular Roman aqueduct that spans a valley of gnarly olive trees. See nimes-tourisme.com
Nantes This industrial port on the Loire and pretty Erdre river in western France is one to watch: it has been undergoing revitalisation and has become a trendy getaway for Parisians. It also has a rich history, good museums and an imposing cathedral and castle. Verdant surrounding countryside is dotted with chateaux, which, if not as imposing as the Loire’s more famous chateaux, are more peaceful. See levoyageanantes.fr
Beaune Burgundy is renowned for wine yet gets far fewer visitors than the Bordeaux and Champagne regions. Its former ducal capital features a superb hospice that provides wonderful architecture and an insight into medical care (or lack of it) in the Middle Ages. Beyond the sights, this is a town for sitting in squares, plundering markets and visiting art galleries. See beaune-tourism.com
Chambery The colourful buildings and piazzas of this pre-alpine city in south-west France are reminiscent of Italy. The former capital of Savoy has a culture-rich old town of cobbled streets and hidden courtyards. Just north is Lac du Bourget for a beautiful boat ride within sight of the Alps. Lakeshore Aix-les-Bains is a posh spa town, and Abbaye d’Hautecombe the scenic resting place of Savoy royalty. See chamberymontagnes.com