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Don’t miss the fresh jersey milk cheese buns at A.P Bakery’s new outpost

The popular Sydney bakery has taken over the kitchen at Marrickville brewery Wildflower.

Bianca Hrovat
Bianca Hrovat

A.P Bakery has taken over the kitchen at Marrickville brewery Wildflower, where they’re serving a spectacular bun filled with pillows of grilled jersey milk cheese.

It’s the next stage in the rapid evolution of the popular bakery brand, taking them from sourdough loaves and sugary pastries to a full menu of pizzas, pies, salads and desserts.

Head baker Dougal Muffet says the team jumped at the opportunity to work directly with Wildflower on a “very casual, snack-oriented bistro”.

Colin Wood’s jersey cheese and hot honey bun from the All Purpose Bakery x Wildflower snack menu.
Colin Wood’s jersey cheese and hot honey bun from the All Purpose Bakery x Wildflower snack menu.Supplied

“We are a bakery first, but it’s a good space to experiment with different concepts,” he says.

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“We love what we do and will play around with a few ideas, using the [Newtown] bakery as the hub.”

Standout dishes at Wildflower include the grilled jersey cheese and hot honey bun ($22), which isn’t as heavy as you might expect from a giant slab of cheese, beef and Wildflower Amber Ale pies ($13) and cheesy cauliflower croquettes with fermented hot sauce ($6 for three). The potato salad with salted egg yolk ($12) is also a winner.

Topher Boehm at his Wildflower brewery in Marrickville.
Topher Boehm at his Wildflower brewery in Marrickville.Dominic Lorrimer

Muffet recommends pairing the dishes with a schooner of Village 2022, an ale made as part of Wildflower’s annual collaboration with Katoomba brewery Mountain Culture.

Wildflower is known for its unique approach to fermentation, using yeasts and bacteria from native wildflowers in their range of beers. This week, they released their sixth Post Brood Blend, a barrel-aged golden beer refermented with “post-brood” wild honeycomb from Malfroy’s Gold Wild Honey, rich in fermented pollen and propolis.

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For those who prefer sweetness in their desserts rather than their drinks, Muffet recommends the Basque cheesecake. Sydney cheesemaker extraordinaire Colin Wood had a hand in developing both the cheesecake and the jersey cheese, which one online commenter describes as “quite literally the best I’ve ever had”.

What makes it so good? “You’ll have to try it and find out,” says Muffet.

A.P Bakery at Wildflower serves its Basque cheesecake with preserved kumquats.
A.P Bakery at Wildflower serves its Basque cheesecake with preserved kumquats.Supplied

A.P first opened on the rooftop of Paramount House Hotel in February 2022, and has since expanded to a regular Carriageworks stall and a standalone shop in Newtown. They plan to stay at Wildflower indefinitely, or “as long as it’s working and we’re welcome”.

The menu, however, is expected to change regularly.

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Bianca HrovatBianca HrovatBianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5d61p