I’d like to buy an exceptional bottle of bubbles to thank two specialists who identified my partner’s rare cancer and eradicated it. Would Cristal be appropriate?

—S.B., Coogee, NSW

One hundred per cent. If I were the recipient of a gift of Louis Roederer Cristal, I’d be over the moon. It’s an exceptional wine and, as such, would eloquently express your gratitude to those wonderful doctors.

I’m also frequently asked if Dom Perignon is all it’s cracked up to be; it seems to be the first choice of giftgivers. My partner is a barrister and she occasionally pulls out mature bottles of Dom that have been given to her over the years by grateful clients. From this I know the answer is yes. Dom Perignon is remarkable for its consistency and quality, especially given the vast quantity that’s produced (several million bottles a year).

It’s interesting how top-shelf champagnes are regarded as the pinnacle of luxurious gifts. High-end cognacs and single-malt scotches are other favourites, but you probably need to know that the recipient enjoys high-octane spirits, whereas champagne is likely to hit the mark with most people.

Of course, an important part of the story is that most people understand that Dom, Cristal, Krug and their ilk are very expensive champagnes. If we don’t know their exact price, we probably understand that they’re all in the price band between $350 and $1000 a bottle. It doesn’t matter how insouciant you are about money and the value of gifts you receive, your vague knowledge of the price will help elicit the desired, appreciative response.

In fact, most champagne houses have a deluxe bottling that costs several hundred dollars, and many of them are beautiful wines. Salon Le Mesnil, Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires,
Piper-Heidsieck Rare, Egly-Ouriet V.P., Gosset Celebris and others are of the same quality and price, but probably don’t enjoy the mass recognition of Dom or Cristal.

By the way, if anyone feels moved to send me a special gift, I’d quite like some Bollinger R.D. or Krug Clos du Mesnil. Thanks for asking.

Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au