Two spicy condiments from Hetty Lui McKinnon's new cookbook, Tenderheart.

Garlicky chilli oil

This is inspired by my favourite commercial chilli oil: Chiu Chow Chilli Oil by Lee Kum Kee, a recipe said to originate from Chiu Chow (also spelled Chaozhou or Teochew) in Guangdong Province, China.

Garlicky, salty and heavy on the heat, this is a real flavour bomb, and is spicier than the umami crisp (see recipe below). Toss through noodles with black vinegar for a simple meal or add to stir-fries for a pungent kick.

You can use the oil and the "sediment" (garlicky chillies) together, the oil on its own, or the sediment can be used as a spicy topping for roasted vegies, salads, noodles, rice or eggs.

Bird's eye chillies are one of the hottest varieties and will give you the right amount of heat, but you can use other fresh chillies too, adding more or less dried red chilli flakes to achieve the level of spice that is right for you.

INGREDIENTS

• 10-12 bird's eye chillies (about 20g), very finely chopped
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 180ml (¾ cup) neutral oil
• 8-10 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp roasted sesame oil
• 1-1 ½ tablespoons red chilli flakes
• ½-1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns, pounded until flaky (optional but recommended)
• ¼ tsp white sugar
• 1½ tbsp soy sauce or tamari

METHOD

1. Combine the chopped chillies and salt and leave to sit for 30 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients.
2. Heat 125ml (½ cup) of the oil, along with the garlic, in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring often, for 10-12 minutes, until the garlic is dehydrated and a light golden colour. You don't want the garlic to fry or turn golden, so watch it closely to ensure it doesn't burn. Add the salted chilli and cook for 5-7 minutes; again watch it closely to prevent burning.
3. Add the remaining 55ml of oil, the sesame oil, red chilli flakes and Sichuan peppercorns (if using) and stir. Finally, add the sugar and soy sauce or tamari and stir until well combined.
4. Transfer to a sterilised jar and allow to cool completely. Store in the fridge for up to 3 months.

Makes 1 cup

Umami crisp

Umami crisp offers a fiery wallop of flavour. Part chilli oil, part chilli crisp, this rich condiment is packed with natural flavour enhancers that impart a deep, dark, "meaty" intensity.

Dried porcini mushroom (or substitute with dried shiitake) is the standout star of this oil, turning slightly jammy as it simmers in the oil, while the garlic, almonds, red chilli flakes and sesame seeds become crisp.

For those who fell irrevocably in love with my gutsy Everything Oil in To Asia, With Love, think of umami crisp as Everything Oil 2.0 – fiercely delicious, undeniably crave-worthy. Serve on top of noodles, rice dishes, salads or fried or jammy eggs.

INGREDIENTS

• 20g (½ cup) dried porcini mushrooms, roughly chopped
• 1 shallot, roughly diced
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• ½ cup flaked almonds
• ½ cup toasted white sesame seeds
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1-2 tbsp red chilli flakes
• 1 tbsp gochugaru
• 310ml (1¼ cups) neutral oil
• 1 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
• 2 tbsp roasted sesame oil
• 2-3 tsp sea salt flakes (to your taste)

METHOD

1. Place the mushroom, shallot, garlic, almonds, sesame seeds, cinnamon stick, red chilli akes, gochugaru and neutral oil in a saucepan and heat over medium-high heat for 1-3 minutes, until the oil starts to bubble around the edge. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the shallot, garlic, almonds and sesame seeds are golden and crispy. (Be watchful – the time this takes will depend upon your stovetop heat and the size of your pan, so I recommend staying close by to monitor progress. I also recommend tasting along the way.) Strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl and leave the mixture to cool – this will allow it to crisp up further. Set the oil aside.
2. When the mushroom mixture is completely cool, stir it back into the oil (including the cinnamon stick as this will continue to flavour the oil once stored) and add the soy sauce or tamari, sesame oil and sea salt flakes (I recommend starting with 2 teaspoons of salt and increasing to 3 if you want it saltier). Store the umami crisp in a sterilised jar in the fridge for up to 3 months.

Makes about 2 cups

This is an edited extract from Tenderheart by Hetty Lui McKinnon, published by Plum, RRP $59.99. Photography by Hetty Lui McKinnon and Shirley Cai. Buy now