This intimate, country-casual diner has the X-factor in spades with new owner-chefs Karl and Katrina Kanetani creating fine food that is anything but precious. Good-natured waiters beam like proud parents as they announce each dish. From the first bite of cheesy gougere, right through to an extraordinary quince and chestnut tart sitting like an exquisite little pie 'floater' in a froth of warm brandy anglaise, it's easy to see why. An out-and-out winner.