One of the many virtues of the Paddo Arms is space. Meals are served in a vast cavern at the back, with healthy distances between tables and banquettes so the black-clad waitfolk can glide swiftly at the busiest times. The Anglo-Irish style will be familiar to followers of Colin Fassnidge (also of the Four in Hand), with a refined take on traddies such as ploughman's lunch, slow-roasted lamb shoulder, confit duck, mushy peas, smoked mackerel, and strawberries and cream (actually a panna cotta). The only disappointment is the crispy pig's tail, which arrives not as a corkscrew but as a rectangular fritter.