Once or twice a year - usually around Chinese New Year - this tiny eatery closes its doors for about a month. The cruelly long wait brings fans of their dumplings close to starting support groups: My name is John Citizen and it's been three weeks and two days since I've had a bowl of soup with pork-and-Chinese-spinach dumplings - topped with chilli black beans - and longer still since I refused to share my prawn-and-chives Sunday special. Made fresh daily, the springy, silky parcels are the stars of the show. A few noodle dishes, the curt service and clean, minimalist decor are mere support acts.